82 ironhead how to find part numbers and a fork tube question please

seanofmacc

seanofmacc

Club Member
So my 82 ironhead was delivered tonight and and just love it so now the work starts to get it roadworthy asap, which has prompted a few questions if I may.
1. Have had life easy when looking for part numbers on my newer stuff, as just went on the schematics at jersey HD to get the numbers and order. How do you get part numbers and schematics for something a little more mature? Was there a parts book back in the day or were they all listed in the factory service manual? I bought a factory manual for my 84 FXRS in 1988 and am sure they weren’t listed but my memory is shit these days.
2. Fork tubes are badly corroded and pitted. There is a place half an hour away from me in Cheshire that will rechrome and grind to size for £180 a pair but was wondering how many years the 35mm tubes ran for and if it is worth the effort of hunting out a used pair perhaps off an early Evo if they Carried over. Does anyone know how long the 35mm tubes were fitted ?
3. Anyone have a S&S super E, filter, cover and manifold they no longer want? The Kehin has been butchered and my OCD is already keeping me awake wondering where to find correct bolts for the float bowl before I even think of buying a refurb kit so will swap out to bring back peace.

The good news is my 11 year old has finally found the desire to start wrenching and was helping with the basic tear down this evening. He loves the ironhead and dislikes the twin cam purely on aesthetics, good lad
 
Something to get you started on the tubes.
The charts I've found to be completely reliable.

Fork Tube Dimensions And Lengths - Harley Davidson Forums

Frame/Suspension/Front End/Brakes - Fork Tube Dimensions And Lengths - http://www.bikernet.com/news/images/PhotoID5574.jpg http://www.bikernet.com/news/images/PhotoID5576.jpg
www.hdforums.com

A.f.a.I.k. thetube #'s the same as any other D/D brake front end 77-78 to 83. dual fork slider caps.
New, or nearly so tubes are cheepurnhell on ebay. Internal dampers, rebush & seal kit also.
I've seen nutty prices for junk and 'hit buy now afore it disappears!'
I think there's still an active link in the tech sect to that huge page of free parts and service manual downloads... Sands or something in the name?
Patience, knowledge and some digging will see you through.....


later on:
noted; a distressing increase in NOT being able to copy/save nice reference jpegs from this-n-that company's websites. The above link may warn you they are not a secure download. 2-3 years back I was able to save the two off the link..... somehow have found one of'em!
H-D fork tube i.d..jpg



digging out p/n's ... standby
 
Last edited:
You can do a search on the relevant year models you are interested in under factory service manual. These are usually in a .pdf format for download and to print off. I have one for 1970-78 and it's fine, although the bound paper manuals are better from a practical point of view in the workshop.
The 35mm fork stanchions are now all pretty old and buying second hand is a lottery with many losers. I just had a pair hard chromed by Brook Suspension in Bradford and they did an immaculate job, which I reckon is better than risking buying second hand for almost as much money.

I think the Super E is too big for an Ironhead, although it's a great carb. A route a lot Ironhead people take is to use a manifold adapter (they're out there) and the later Keihin CV with a suitable needle (usually an N65C) and they appear to run very well. Another option (my favourite) if you have money to spend might be the Mikuni round slide, either a 38mm or 40mm or even the flat slide HS40. Kits are available via the usual route.....
 
The links have been brilliant, thank you. Have all my immediate part numbers and a few are still available but most unobtanium. The hunt begins. The fork rechromer is only on 4 week turnaround so if I can’t find elsewhere, will give ‘em a go
 
There are illustrated parts books. You will need part number 99451-85A. Parts Catalog XL Models 1979 to 1985.

There may be others that cover a shorter period.

I have the above book and could look up numbers for you if you get stuck.

Fork tubes are called slider tubes and there are three different part numbers.

45407-75......1979 to 83-XL, XLCH; 83-XLS, XLX.

45407-83......1984 to ( end of period covered by book) 1985 XL, XLS, XLX.

45644-77......1979 to 82- XLS.

What the differences are it doesn't tell. Some of the XLS's had longer sliders but I don't know if they all did.

It should be a lot of fun when you get out to play.

Ron.
 
Seanofmacc, I've cross matched Ron's Sportster tube numbers and they are an exact match for '74c.i.'s & 80 c.i. BT's 77-83.
There's a diff # for diff models but they all match up; which greatly increases your options.
Best o'luck with it.
 
Mr Speed said:
I think the Super E is too big for an Ironhead, although it's a great carb. A route a lot Ironhead people take is to use a manifold adapter (they're out there) and the later Keihin CV with a suitable needle (usually an N65C) and they appear to run very well. Another option (my favourite) if you have money to spend might be the Mikuni round slide, either a 38mm or 40mm or even the flat slide HS40. Kits are available via the usual route.....
Click to expand...

I have already found that googling carbs for iron heads is akin to asking about which oil to use !! Found a useful post on here from 2009 and a multitude of other webpages. Lots of people claim one over the others so am going to keep an open mind and it will probably end up, what's available at the right price at the right time, as this is not going to turn into a money pit build (famous last words). I may well take a ride up to see Russ at Bretton and see what he has lurking around in the dark corners. I already have a carb adaptor in the back of the garage, just in case. But looking at the engine from the carb side, it just feels like it needs a S&S as they just look so right.
 
Skip said:
Seanofmacc, I've cross matched Ron's Sportster tube numbers and they are an exact match for '74c.i.'s & 80 c.i. BT's 77-83.
There's a diff # for diff models but they all match up; which greatly increases your options.
Best o'luck with it.
Click to expand...
Thanks Skip, much appreciated.
 
Ron said:
There are illustrated parts books. You will need part number 99451-85A. Parts Catalog XL Models 1979 to 1985.

There may be others that cover a shorter period.

I have the above book and could look up numbers for you if you get stuck.

Fork tubes are called slider tubes and there are three different part numbers.

45407-75......1979 to 83-XL, XLCH; 83-XLS, XLX.

45407-83......1984 to ( end of period covered by book) 1985 XL, XLS, XLX.

45644-77......1979 to 82- XLS.

What the differences are it doesn't tell. Some of the XLS's had longer sliders but I don't know if they all did.

It should be a lot of fun when you get out to play.

Ron.
Click to expand...
Thats great Ron, much appreciated
 
seanofmacc said:
I have already found that googling carbs for iron heads is akin to asking about which oil to use !! Found a useful post on here from 2009 and a multitude of other webpages. Lots of people claim one over the others so am going to keep an open mind and it will probably end up, what's available at the right price at the right time, as this is not going to turn into a money pit build (famous last words). I may well take a ride up to see Russ at Bretton and see what he has lurking around in the dark corners. I already have a carb adaptor in the back of the garage, just in case. But looking at the engine from the carb side, it just feels like it needs a S&S as they just look so right.
Click to expand...
If money is tight try and find a CV that has not been butchered and just change the plastic inlet elbow for a brass one, go for an N65C needle and start simple. There are still some good ones lying in people's sheds because they were the first thing to change and were used on bog twins, too. Best carb Harley ever fitted as stock I reckon. You can also buy an S & S air cleaner with an adapter to fit the CV and it works well and looks good.

The Bendix is good and simple if you can find one that isn't knackered.
 
Mr Speed said:
If money is tight try and find a CV that has not been butchered and just change the plastic inlet elbow for a brass one, go for an N65C needle and start simple. There are still some good ones lying in people's sheds because they were the first thing to change and were used on bog twins, too. Best carb Harley ever fitted as stock I reckon. You can also buy an S & S air cleaner with an adapter to fit the CV and it works well and looks good.

The Bendix is good and simple if you can find one that isn't knackered.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the suggestion. I have managed to find a NOS parts manual and a NOS factory manual and ordered them so we have a good start. Using the on-line parts finders, I have made a list of what I need to change to be happy to ride the bike hard, and the list is shockingly long, so some parts I will need to have and some are going to be nice to haves or "run to fail" as opposed to being proactive. Probably have to go down the CV route in the short term.
 
To everyone who has provided so much guidance many thanks. I have followed all of it. While a couple of people have come back offering to supply replica parts for the bike, which is great and I will need, I was wondering if you could share any places that might be good for NOS bits or barely used. I have spoken with Snobs in London who was super helpful and pleasant but was wondering if there are others out there off the radar as the list is getting long and I don’t want to rely on Boons in Holland due to their slow response in getting back to you and price. I have found a bloke who will rebuild the wheels at a very competitive price locally if I supply new spokes and rims so want to get going at speed. I originally intended a quick recommission and ride but it needs that much that it may as well come apart totally and it might as well get done properly over the winter. I was trying to avoid getting anal about the rebuild but I think it’s happened already and it’s too feckin late 🙁
 
Not trying to teach Granny to suck eggs here but if you strip the wheels you need to measure to see if there is an off set of the rim from the centre of the hub. Many are not in line centre of rim to centre of hub.

When replacing the front wheel the speedo drive box can turn, damaging the cable, as the spindle nut is done up.

It's a very good idea to run a dedicated earth from regulator to battery or you are relying on a possible rusty mounting for a earth.

Ron.
 
In my experience there's not a lot available in the UK - there never were enough ironheads (even after the mid 70's rise upswing) to justify stocking lots of OEM, let alone custom parts, so if you want to stay local you may have look through the Club and see if some of us old codgers have got bits you might need.

In Europe, W & W Cycles - https://www.wwag.com/cgi-bin/WebObjects/WebSite.woa/wa/DirectAction?page=GoodStuff - stock a good range of ironhead parts. They pack well and are reasonable enough for most items, but for some reason they occasionally go mad and add too many noughts to the price, so do look carefully first.

There are several places in the US that specialise and eBay can be good if you can get stuff at sensible prices - the shipping rates, VAT and duties are shocking, though. Much reviled among some owners, V Twin manufacturing have quite a range of stuff for all Sportys and the specialist shops use a lot of their material. However, it looks like even they are not re-stocking some lines - a sign of the times?

It's the same story with getting work done. The '60's bikes are 'engineers bikes' that need capable guys that know them inside out. The later ones (like yours) were simplified to build them quicker and so require less shimming - e.g the gearboxes.

So, for anyone who bought one of those 'cheap' ironheads on eBay, good luck with that one.......

Seriously, though, there must be some Club members with ironhead bits lying about who may be able to help. I know I have some and there must be others. Some of them have lots of hard won knowledge with these quirky bikes, too. I'm even getting some small 'unobtainable' bits like hub washers and fork stem washers made in small batches and will be putting them out there - these bikes aren't going away, so we may have to become more resilient to make sure simple stuff is to dedicated riders available at sensible prices.

Best of luck with it - they're great bikes and you'll love it even more once it's done..
 
seanofmacc said:
.................................................... I originally intended a quick recommission and ride but it needs that much that it may as well come apart totally and it might as well get done properly over the winter............................
Click to expand...
A worthy cause.

To take Ron's suggestion on a different level:
If you're going to do a complete teardown, pull an alignment check before it all comes apart.
Put bike on stand. Remove F&R wheels. Remove tyres. Put wheels back on to torque. Use straightedge to check alignment(s) and for out of round.
Now you have established a true baseline for the front-end and rear-end and wheel-rims alignment upon reassembly.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top