Cam chain tensioners check .

If you mean an early Twin-Cam, 99-05, it's easy enough to do the check yourself. You need to take off the front exhaust to get the cam cover off, and that's easy or not dependent on what pipes are fitted, and whether the nuts are seized or not. I put a post up years ago (search, and you will find), but the photos were on Photobucket, so long gone now.
If you want to have a go, I'll see if I can rake out the pix for you.
 
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Banquo's piece was far too valuable to loose so I saved it as a word document some time ago!
I have converted it to PDF to upload here, Jake needs to be commended, it works and works well, I have done it several times and even had to show it to a H-D Master Tech as he just did not believe it could be done and subsequently changed his whole view on the check!
 

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SJC69 said:
Banquo's piece was far too valuable to loose so I saved it as a word document some time ago!
I have converted it to PDF to upload here, Jake needs to be commended, it works and works well, I have done it several times and even had to show it to a H-D Master Tech as he just did not believe it could be done and subsequently changed his whole view on the check!
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Cheers SJC: I lost a lot of stuff when I retired, so that saves me a lot of searching :cool:
 
When I did my Cam upgrade some years ago there was a warning regarding the Cam Plate Bolts. From memory, 2 of the Bolts are slightly shorter than the others and they MUST be replaced in the same location. If a longer Bolt is used it will go through the wall of the Crankcase causing catastrophic damage. I seem to remember the location of these shorter Bolts were on the left side of the Cam Plate but I can't remember the exact location. To be safe, cut a piece of cardboard roughly in the shape of the Cam Chest and mark where each bolt has come from. Dig a hole in each Mark and push the removed bolt into the cardboard which will hold it until needed. Also be sure to Torque the Bolts to the correct settings. There is loads of posts on the Net. regarding stripped threads!
My bike is a 2000 TC88 and I don't know if the Mo-Co has addressed this problem for later bikes.
 
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softail898 said:
When I did my Cam upgrade some years ago there was a warning regarding the Cam Plate Bolts. From memory, 2 of the Bolts are slightly shorter than the others and they MUST be replaced in the same location. If a longer Bolt is used it will go through the wall of the Crankcase causing catastrophic damage. I seem to remember the location of these shorter Bolts were on the left side of the Cam Plate but I can't remember the exact location. To be safe, cut a piece of cardboard roughly in the shape of the Cam Chest and mark where each bolt has come from. Dig a hole in each Mark and push the removed bolt into the cardboard which will hold it until needed. Also be sure to Torque the Bolts to the correct settings. There is loads of posts on the Net. regarding stripped threads!
My bike is a 2000 TC88 and I don't know if the Mo-Co has addressed this problem for later bikes.
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I read on here of someone who got the (longer) cam cover screws and those from the camplate mixed up, and when he reassembled found the engine wouldn't turn over. Turned out the longer screw had pushed out the wall of the bore where the cam follower sits... Bye bye crankcase
 
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banquo said:
I reade on here of someone who got the (longer) cam cover screws and those from the camplate mixed up, and when he reassembled found the engine wouldn't turn over. Turned out the longer screw had pushed out the wall of the bore where the cam follower sits... Bye bye crankcase
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Yes that is exactly what I read somewhere too! But I can't find where I read this many years ago. I have checked my Workshop Manual and there is no mention of it in there so it must have been on the Instruction Sheet that came with the Andrews Cams. Will have a root around tomorrow and if I find it I will post on here.
 
Had a 2000 tc88 softail standard moons ago. It already had the s&s gearcam conversation in it twas great, check the kit out. But you’ve got to have the runout checked first, it’s gotta be within a certain tolerance to be abe to fit& work properly , top bit of kit
 
ElGordo said:
Had a 2000 tc88 softail standard moons ago. It already had the s&s gearcam conversation in it twas great, check the kit out. But you’ve got to have the runout checked first, it’s gotta be within a certain tolerance to be abe to fit& work properly , top bit of kit
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I had gear drive fitted to my 03 TC and it could not be fitted if the runout was greater than .003
 
Going back to the cam plate and those two short screws i recommend you dont use the specified torque but lessen it slightly for those bolts
 
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softail898 said:
They have less thread than the others and it is VERY EASY to Strip them. Loads of instances on the net regarding stripped threads.
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Good to know, as I'll have mine out shortly.
Difficult to know what to do though - tight enough to stay put, but not tight enough to strip....
 
banquo said:
Good to know, as I'll have mine out shortly.
Difficult to know what to do though - tight enough to stay put, but not tight enough to strip....
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The quoted Torque is given between 2 figures. E.G. on my FXST it is 90 to 120 Inch Lbs. It is recommended to set the Torque to the middle of these 2 figures for the Shorter Bolts i.e. 105 Inch Lbs. and you should be safe. Please check your Workshop Manual for the correct Torque for your bike.
 
softail898 said:
The quoted Torque is given between 2 figures. E.G. on my FXST it is 90 to 120 Inch Lbs. It is recommended to set the Torque to the middle of these 2 figures for the Shorter Bolts i.e. 105 Inch Lbs. Please check your Workshop Manual for the correct Torque for your bike.
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Ah, OK: I thought the suggestion was to be below the recommended setting. I usually use the middle for all torque settings, although when it's critical like this, probably best to degrease everything first, as the torque's probably based on dry fasteners. Mine's also an FXST, so I assume my manual will agree with yours.
Thanks for the tip.
 
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