Glide won't start...electrical issue?

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crispy

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Went to fire my 2019 Street Glide Special yesterday after a few weeks of rest and discovered no power to anything on the handlebars i.e. ignition switch, turn signals, front brake light, entertainment system. Neither is any power to any of the clocks.
There IS however power to front and rear lamps and the entertainment system itself does come on, plus the rear brake pedal activates the brake lamp.
The battery has been on an Optimate and shows green when tested off the bike. On the bike the indicator leds suggest 'an anomalous load on the battery' (possibly?)
Have checked left side cover fuses and all fine. Main fuse obviously fine.
I changed the plugs near Xmas, so had tank off, but have retraced all steps and nothing obvious there.
Am puzzled at moment and would appreciate some pointers... :-(
 
A wiring Diagram is essential for faults like these. Have you got one?
You say the Fuses are ok but did you remove them and check with a Multimeter rather than just look and assume they are good? There are various Connector Blocks on bike wiring these days. As you have had the Tank off did you disturb a Connector? It’s worth checking that you haven’t trapped/damaged any wires that run to the front of the bike when you put the Tank back.
You could connect another Battery, as if you were jump starting, to see if it makes a difference. This would prove your bike Battery is not the problem.
If you havent got a Wiring Diagram go to the Tool Loan section and look for the post “Digital Harley Manuals”.
There is a Wiring Diagram section, download your bikes wiring diagram. It will help.
Good luck. Let us know.
 
Have you had your meter on the battery with ignition off and when trying to start. There's usually one or two threads like this coming up to Spring, batteries do go bad even on an optimate, it's happened to me.
 
Can't locate my meter at present, but I have now tried a jumpstart from car battery without any change...still no power to handlebars/ignition/gauges...albeit obligatory lights are still illuminated - so must receive their power separately. I have replaced the half dozen fuses under left sidecover with new and the Optimate4 is showing good battery now when connected through bike (and good when off the bike we earlier). I have checked tightness of battery terminals and inspected harness routing under tank - it is well protected with hard plastic cover, save for one peephole on side where wires look fine. All connectors I can see look fine and have examined the pins inside any previously opened connectors that were opened during tank removal. I have now looked at the wiring diagrams but they seem too complicated for my level of experience. I rather hoped I was missing something fairly obvious, but nowt's easy....
 
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Can't locate my meter at present, but I have now tried a jumpstart from car battery without any change...still no power to handlebars/ignition/gauges...albeit obligatory lights are still illuminated - so must receive their power separately. I have replaced the half dozen fuses under left sidecover with new and the Optimate4 is showing good battery now when connected through bike (and good when off the bike we earlier). I have checked tightness of battery terminals and inspected harness routing under tank - it is well protected with hard plastic cover, save for one peephole on side where wires look fine. All connectors I can see look fine and have examined the pins inside any previously opened connectors that were opened during tank removal. I have now looked at the wiring diagrams but they seem too complicated for my level of experience. I rather hoped I was missing something fairly obvious, but nowt's easy....

If the tank has been off its worth carefully checking all of the wiring that was either disturbed or moved during the tank removal and refitting process to make sure it hasn’t been inadvertently damaged or trapped during the refitting process. The canbus wiring is very susceptible to damage from even the slightest degree of being trapped or squashed. Even a tiny nick or crease in a wire is capable of completely shutting down the systems served by that part of the loom.
 
I feel your frustration, but as I realised recently, Earths! Check all your earths first I should.. might sound obvious, but if it's been standing a few weeks and we have had damp/cold weather.. it plays havoc with the simplest of things..
Best wishes on your search..
Titch
 
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Here is the Main Wiring Diagram for a Street Bike which I assume is your bike.
As you can see they are not simple. However, there are 2 Relays that look like they feed power around the bike. They are the Ignition Relay and the System Relay. As all 4 Relays are the same, try swapping the Fan Relay with the Ignition Relay and then with the System Relay to see if power comes on. if you look at the Relay Diagram you could test each Relay by taking it out of the bike and putting a Battery on Terminal 85 and an Earth on Terminal 86 and you should hear/feel the Relay operate. a Meter across Term. 30 and 87 will prove the relay is good. I think one or both of these relays is the culprit.
Let us know.

Street Main.JPG

Relay.JPG
 
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Thanks for your time and research which is much appreciated. I do wonder whether the wiring diagram is for the 750 Street Rod rather than my Glide? You may still be right on the matter of relays though...
 
Thanks for your time and research which is much appreciated. I do wonder whether the wiring diagram is for the 750 Street Rod rather than my Glide? You may still be right on the matter of relays though...

You’ll find a copy of the service and electrical manuals using the links on the following post


The links can be trusted and the member proving them is a member of our Region.
 
Thanks for your time and research which is much appreciated. I do wonder whether the wiring diagram is for the 750 Street Rod rather than my Glide? You may still be right on the matter of relays though...
You may well be right. I have now found Diagrams of a 2019 FLHXSE which is possibly your bike. The one marked 4 of 4 is the one to look at. It only shows 2 Relays, a Cooling Relay and a P&A Relay. How many Relays have you got on your bike? However many you have, test them to make sure they are good.
There is a Red wire coming from The Main Fuse that goes left to Diagram 3. Looking at Diagram 3, that Red Wire goes into the ECM. This is now very difficult as power can come out of one or many wires on the ECM to feed the other parts of the bike. If the Relays prove ok I would check each Fuse outlet i.e. the Left Hand Side of the Fuses on the Diagram. You should see power on all. Then check each Plug Connector you took apart and make sure you pressed them back together properly. Whatever the fault, I am convinced it is something simple.
I am sorry Crispy but if still no good it will be the Dealership I am afraid.

FLHXE 1of4.JPG

FLHXE 2of4.JPG

FLHXE3of4.JPG

FLHSE 4of4.JPG
 
Many thanks. Yes although looking at the number of fuses it isn't my bike, but the two relays are definitely the same and I have swapped them over without a change. The terminals on them are very clean and chalk free. I have retried a jump with fresh set of cables in case the old pair were faulty and earlier shared the symptoms with a friendly Tech at the nearest Dealer workshop who was equally perplexed for now. I have since arranged taking it to Dealer next weekend.
 
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Brief update: uplifting to the dealer is on hold for now, so after a break I have gone back to it and managed to raise the DTCs on the BOOM box:

U014100: lost comm w/LHCM
U014200: lost comm w/RHCM
U015600: lost comm w/speedo
All are current and won't clear.

My thoughts still surround a fuse issue? but I have checked and rechecked them in the fusebox using multimeter since. Have removed headlamp to check main two connectors behind and both looked okay when opened.
A rider on a forum across the pond with very similar symptoms on his 2017 FLHTK some time ago mentioned having 'water inside the large plug on the left side of the floater plate under the radio. Blew it out and everything works'.
While the harness splits behind a protective shroud there is no actual connector on mine and things look good underneath.
For the first time though I saw every warning light in the gauges flashing dimly then stop after switching off ignition!
 
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You have those DTCs and as a full member have access to the Electrical Diagnostic Manual, this has a step by step process of working through these codes.


1678116788874.png

So all three codes points to the same section (where to start looking is in the last column.)

1678115259298.png
The section gives a brief explanation then Diagnostic tips, followed by diagrams and more specific testing.

1678115406413.png
So a basic explanation of the above is all the modules need to be connected, communicate & powered properly, if not fault codes will be set:-
You have 3 fault codes, R/H & L/H control modules & Speedometer part of the IM

So on the next page, is a diagram of the connections, (see below) those three modules that the fault codes point to all go through connector 1 and with no other modules connected, so that would be a good place to start and also check all the other connectors in that circuit (22, 24 & 39) . They are all under the Batwing fairing!

Is there full battery voltage on terminal 4 and full earth on terminal 5 at connector 1 when there should be, It could be corrosion, connectors not pushed and locked together correctly or a pin pushed back slightly and work on through the others from there!
Remember it could also be damaged wiring between the connectors that is the issue.

Section A2 of the diagnostic manual lists what type and where all the connectors can be found with Section B will list how to dismantle and repair each type of connector.
1678116410422.png



1678118161809.png
 
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I did not know about the Diagnostic stuff. Will need to spend some time understanding this but many thanks.
 
I wanted to provide the end story to anyone interested: it certainly proved to be a mystery for a good while and in the end I needed help from the nearest dealership. After some puzzlement the mechanic luckily spotted a little glint of copper-blue corrosion on a wire at the rear of the fusebox which led to the 5amp battery fuse. (Number 3 on schematic). And that was it!20230322_134241.jpg16800188469318052353888390941206.jpg
 
Nice to know you got it sorted Crispy. But if I was you I would try to get the Fusebox protected from the elements. Looks like you have a ton of debris getting into the back of the Fusebox. OK if it is dry but if it's wet the dreaded blue corrosion will attack your wires.
 
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