Rear stoplight on all the time

Right I can't get tge lever off without removing the throttle switchgear.

I have abs

Codes are

b1122 left turn output open (all indicators work)

C1023 abs rear always zero
C1025 abs ft wheel speed intermittent
C1032 abs front wheel speed circuit open/ shorted

I know about the front sensor and have one to fit, but time and facilities are at a premium because it gets dark early, I need it for work and I can't turn it around in the replica of the Somme that is my garden without falling over.

As you see the cruise control is not throwing a code.

I did some research and the concensus is a brake switch which is why I'm looking there.
I'm going to have a squint at the wiring diagram
 
PMK said:
I have abs

Codes are

b1122 left turn output open (all indicators work)

C1023 abs rear always zero
C1025 abs ft wheel speed intermittent
C1032 abs front wheel speed circuit open/ shorted

I know about the front sensor and have one to fit, but time and facilities are at a premium because it gets dark early, I need it for work and I can't turn it around in the replica of the Somme that is my garden without falling over.

As you see the cruise control is not throwing a code.

I did some research and the concensus is a brake switch which is why I'm looking there.
I'm going to have a squint at the wiring diagram
Click to expand...
B1122 Left Turn Output Fault (often a lamp out but as all working it could be a historic fault, but could also have be due to corrosion water on the tail lamp circuit board)

As you have ABS, I assume if you have these codes the ABS fault light stays illuminated and most likely the ABS is disabled, i.e it will not work!

C1023 abs rear always zero (This could be again a historic code i.e. now no fault, see below)

C1025 abs ft wheel speed intermittent
C1032 abs front wheel speed circuit open/ shorted (These two are both for the front sensor)

To tell if they are historic they will clear after so many ignition cycles or clear them via the speedo then re-check if they reappear, if they don't they were historic codes.
 
I had a look at the connections in rear light and they are smothered in blue shit.

I've ordered a pcb for the rear light and will swap that once it stops snowing after its arrival.

Needless to say that today I am stealing the car
 
The blue shit is dialectric grease do not buy a pcb its not needed i am sure that your issue is the front lever switch and the tang on the lever does the brake light go out with the lever removed ? If so its the lever tang worn simple pennies fix
 
Silicone grease or dielectric grease that I have purchased is transparent without colour.

If the blue is tending to green then it is probably copper oxide. Can you post a picture?

TVV5IWc.jpg
 
PMK, I think you are over complicating it. As Watchman says, take the Brake Lever off and you will have eliminated the most likely cause of the problem. I think it will be the culprit.
 
If you’ve replaced the rear switch, it will almost certainly be the front switch. As others have said, it could be a worn tang on the lever, aftermarket levers can also cause similar problems where the tang isn’t the same size as on a stock lever. Given that you use your bike in all weather, it could be a simple matter of taking the switch out and giving it a thorough clean.
 
Don't forget I have nowhere undercover to work so it's all academic at the minute
 
An alternative approach. When was the hydraulic fluid last changed or lines bled? With degraded fluid or air in the system there may be insufficient pressure to operate the actuator at the master cylinder and operate the switch. If the lever's 'loose', it would indicate a fluid issue rather than either mechanical or electrical. Fluid should be changed every two years or if discoloured.
 
Somehow you have that backwards. The light is on all the time suggesting a switch is closed. Usually hydraulic in the rear brake line = no pressure no switch operation.
 
Right then, it's been dry enough to fling some spanners

Removed front brake lever and the light resolutely remained illuminated.

Replaced the rear printed circuit board

Same result

Disconnected the (new) rear switch and the light went out but the front doesn't illuminate when it's Disconnected.

Sigh it's dark now so I'm off to the pub later
 
Have a look back to the start of this thread, I think you are going the wrong way with this. When the lever is pulled in (or removed ) the pin in the end of the switch inside the unit moves out and brings the light on.

When the lever is released (or replaced) the pin is pushed in by the lever and the stop light should go out.

With the lever removed look inside the unit and see if you can see the pin that operates the switch. If you can see it push it in and see if the light goes out.

Ron.
 
PMK, as Ron says, you have got it backwards. With the Brake Lever in its unoperated position the Switch is pushed IN thus no power to the bulb so the light will go out. With the Lever operated, or removed, the nipple on the Switch is allowed to come outwards and pass power to the bulb.
From what you are saying I think the Switch is sticking so permanently powering the Stop Bulb.
Keep at it mate, we will solve this. :encouragement:
 
This video provides quite good information on how to address the problems in the front brake light switching process that can cause the brake light to remain illuminated. If the bike is an all year, and all weather bike, chances are the problem will be with the front switch or brake plunger not fully returning

 
Mark Hammond said:
This video provides quite good information on how to address the problems in the front brake light switching process that can cause the brake light to remain illuminated. If the bike is an all year, and all weather bike, chances are the problem will be with the front switch or brake plunger not fully returning

Click to expand...

Paul, this, or the actuating tang on the lever is worn. I've been lubricating the plunger every 6 months which worked but the fault came back and it's now obvious that there is wear on the lever tang. I superglued a bit of plastic onto the tang and so far so good.
If you want to test this on a temporary basis then build up the face of the tang with gaffer tape and see if it cures the problem.
 
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