Street won’t start.

Brigg

Club Member
Bought a street about a week ago, had it delivered from Bishops Auckland. Saw the bike running and being loaded on the transport and now on arrival it’s dead. We have lights, I have changed the battery, checked the Earth leads and all connections. On running through the bills he had some major work done in July this year which included an Fuelpak FP3 11. The last pack I had fitted to my old 1200c was an actual fit and not like this which is apparently app controlled. He has kept the fuelpak for his other bikes. I’m concerned that the fuelpak is somehow connect to the non starting of the bike.. Did the 2016 year model have an immobiliser fob? And with the file pack I have read the the fuelpak is marked for life to the bike. It can be used to diagnose fault codes on other bikes but can’t flash the system whic I presume means remap? I have tried to read the fault code as shown on YouTube but all I get is the trip…lol. Beginning to feel desperate cheers Brigg
 
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Yes I can here a slight click on the starter. I’ve tried bumping it but I’m a bit too old to do that too often lol. I’ve rocked the bike in 3rd to release If stuck.
 
The Fuelpak FP3 11 is a device you plug in and 'flash' the ECU with a new fuelling map so starting is unlikely to be linked to this. When you say, 'major work', was this just pipe, air filter and re-map?

If you hear a click when starting it is the starting solenoid, so I would check the battery condition and measure the voltage before and during starting as a big dip will point at the battery being knackered.

The only other option is to find a hill, stick it in 3rd and try and bump start it before going deep into fault finding.
 
I agrre I think it's the solenoid, the ECU wouldn't let the starter click if it was faulty so as other guys have said gather a couple of bods together and bump it
 
Yes I can here a slight click on the starter. I’ve tried bumping it but I’m a bit too old to do that too often lol. I’ve rocked the bike in 3rd to release If stuck.

A single click could mean the starter is not engaging. Repeated clicks could mean the battery is not delivering enough current. If it worked previously, I would check the connections before going further. As above - a bump start to get things moving might help to start with.
 
The Fuelpak FP3 11 is a device you plug in and 'flash' the ECU with a new fuelling map so starting is unlikely to be linked to this. When you say, 'major work', was this just pipe, air filter and re-map?

If you hear a click when starting it is the starting solenoid, so I would check the battery condition and measure the voltage before and during starting as a big dip will point at the battery being knackered.

The only other option is to find a hill, stick it in 3rd and try and bump start it before going deep into fault finding.
 
The guy has agreed to send me the FP, I have replaced the battery, checked the Earth terminals, and lead. The invoice doesn’t specify work except new screaming Eagle Airfilter, it was running hot at some stage and the duke pack was supposed to sort this. However I feel the guy has been taken for a ride all the dealership had to do was remap it not flog the guy a £400 Of unnecessary add ons. Finally bumping it isn’t an option I’m. It exactly Young lol
 
Problem solved. The fuelpak arrived in the post this morning. Fitted, paired and remapped in 20 minutes. Running in 25.
 
That's what I thought.

I once had a fuel pack that made my fatboy run and backfire like cow on baked beans but it didnt make any difference to the solenoid or starter engaging now I stand to be corrected but a fuel pack has no impact on the solenoid or starter but I'm open to being educated
 
Back to beginning. Bloody thing won’t start again

Earlier you said that the soleniod was clicking on pressing the start button. Is it doing it again? Are you sure that when the solenoid clicks, current is passing through it to the starter? Put a meter on the starter side connection of the soleniod and see if current is going through the solenoid when you go to start.
 
Before you get too deep do a voltage drop test put your meter on battery and hit the tit and see how much the voltage drops if it shows 13.5v before hitting the tit and drops like a stone as you do it and goes below 9.4v there’s not enough to turn the starter and also harleys ignitions wont fire with less than 9v when cranking which would lead me to suspect a duff battery … how old is it ?
 
In your original post you mentioned you'd fitted a 'new' battery, but is it fully charged and holding that charge? Has it been sat on a shelf and discharged over time? Maybe take it back to where you bought it, get them to put a battery tester on it and demonstrate that it's sound.
 
Bought a new battery last week. Thursday a new charger and avo, sadly last item was not in stock due Tuesday. Good old Halfords. The problem is the fuel pack. The previous owner had removed from the Street and put it on his new bike and tried to tune which of course it won’t. So I have fiddled around and managed to set it back to the original map. However in doing so I flattened the battery again. Simply because of the length of time I’m messing about with it with the lights on. I’m no expert or even have basic mech knowledge. I had it running yesterday albeit a bit rough. Took the fuel pack off and of course it will not restart. Going to have to give it a go on Monday my next day off
 
Bought a new battery last week. Thursday a new charger and avo, sadly last item was not in stock due Tuesday. Good old Halfords. The problem is the fuel pack. The previous owner had removed from the Street and put it on his new bike and tried to tune which of course it won’t. So I have fiddled around and managed to set it back to the original map. However in doing so I flattened the battery again. Simply because of the length of time I’m messing about with it with the lights on. I’m no expert or even have basic mech knowledge. I had it running yesterday albeit a bit rough. Took the fuel pack off and of course it will not restart. Going to have to give it a go on Monday my next day off

That's strange, the FP3 does not need to be on the bike once you have remapped and autotuned it. I can't offer much in the way of advice, but it may be worth having a look at this video. It certainly helped me with my FP3 installation.

Fuelpak 3 Motorcycle Electronic Fuel Injection EFI Tuner Vance & Hines | Install Tutorial - YouTube
 
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