howo
Club Member
2005 XL1200R
ok this
cam cover breather :-
sportsterpedia.com
and these Rocker lockers :-
www.hogparts.co.uk
Model year specific with easy instructions. Easy to do once rockers off.
Installed in my garage with basic home mechanic tools & a few hrs on YouTube to get opinions & different views on rocker plates off and on (went with the Hammer ones) and chats with mechanically minded souls about cams dropping out..
only done a 50 mile test drive since completion but rockers much quieter & Cam cover breather works well. Sounds nice & tight. Early days about the amount or lack of oil weep from new breather but looking normal from the 1st ride out..
very happy so far.
update have done 200 mls now and no oil from new breather set up, just cloudy water
good stuff.
Any question just ask.
solid 1/2 inch bolts replace hollow bolt
Oil baffle aluminium from Wicks cut with tin snips & file to finish Tip :- make sure both folds are at 90 degree to cam cover & I put a slight bend/ tension in the main plate to keeps it tight
there are four Large, 3 medium bolts & 2 small Allen head Bolts in the rocker plates. I was advise by a lot of peeps inc mechanic’s to just seat then snug the Allen head bolts as they can snap easily .. again Do your research and do what you think best
two of the large main bolts ( on the left of rear cylinder) again on the rocker plate are too close to top frame to get a torque wrench on. On various videos they just used a spanner and guess the torque fron the other torqued bolts. Again research and make your choice. If the cams drop out while your removing the cover the lifters will only drop a little to rest on the cam bushes. You can lift back the lifters with a screwdriver all be it a fiddle and put in the cam. be careful not to rotate the lifter in its bore & double check the cams are all in the right place ie the timing marks all line up correctly. Follow the manual to check.
One way breather valve and my tube route
Can’t see any reason not to permanently glue the brass elbow in place. Atm just held in by Teflon plumbers tape & lightly snugged up to a washer..
ok so external breather system with no leaks now around the whole carb area & much neater imo then the standard banjo bolt setups. Better engineering setup too as a crank case breather agin in my opinion.
bought the drill and tap of Ebay. The brass elbow fitting I got 1/4” npt with 10 mm hose end, eBay again. If your one way crank pressure relief valve uses a smaller hose get that hose Diameter end.
I’ve never drilled & taped anything in my life so was freaking out about doing this… tip :- I 1st drilled a pilot hole. Before drilling I marked the center of the round area on the cover. Taped a thin kebab stick from the center mark flat on the cover through that mark & pointing to the hole position marked on the side of cover. then with the cover clamped to a flat surface, use a level as you need to block the cover up off the bench as bronze bushes petrude from inside the cover, lean a straight adge against the side of the cover. Look down from above, as photo above, to line up the drill bit with top kabab stick (or other) this gives you a 90 degree hole through the cover. Line up the straight edge with the drill bit & you get the other dimension at 90 degrees. You’ll need a friend for that one. I had the wife who was as terrified as I’d ever seen her at messing up.
now drill the main hole lining up the same. its important as I was practicing on a 5mm plate aluminium by eye I constantly miss drill the holes causing the thread cutter to jam halfway through cutting the thread.
cutting the thread on the case I line it up best I could and did the same. Worked out perfect
see below for up date!
or ofc go find a company who can drill an tap it for you. Should not cost much if you find a local engineer or black smith.
Up date :- when taping the hole start it off, go in a bit take out the thread cutter try the brass fitting to see in which position it tightens into the tapered hole ie 90 degree hose connector pointing down. If it doesn’t then tap hole some more until it’s at a decent death into the cover pointing in the direction you want and tightly screwed into the tapered thread. Don’t just cut the thread all the way through the cover. When done use locktite 262 ( med to high strength) or 263 high strength thread lock or tape as preferred.
I cut all the way through ( my bad) and solved that buy using 263 which has made it secure & sealed.
of coarse all this work is done at your own risk. This is how I did mine at my responsibility.
And you’ll need a workshop manual.
ok this
cam cover breather :-
REF: Engine Mechanicals - Sub-05D - Sportsterpedia
and these Rocker lockers :-
Rocker Locker Kit. Sportster
DescriptionDK Custom, Rocker Locker kit. SportsterDetailsEvolution engines make a lot of noise inside the rocker cover. This is due to the way H-D designed the rocker arm installation. The bolt that locks the rocker shaft is not a tight fit at all, when installed it allows the rocker shaft to...
www.hogparts.co.uk
Installed in my garage with basic home mechanic tools & a few hrs on YouTube to get opinions & different views on rocker plates off and on (went with the Hammer ones) and chats with mechanically minded souls about cams dropping out..
only done a 50 mile test drive since completion but rockers much quieter & Cam cover breather works well. Sounds nice & tight. Early days about the amount or lack of oil weep from new breather but looking normal from the 1st ride out..
very happy so far.
update have done 200 mls now and no oil from new breather set up, just cloudy water
good stuff.Any question just ask.
solid 1/2 inch bolts replace hollow boltOil baffle aluminium from Wicks cut with tin snips & file to finish Tip :- make sure both folds are at 90 degree to cam cover & I put a slight bend/ tension in the main plate to keeps it tightthere are four Large, 3 medium bolts & 2 small Allen head Bolts in the rocker plates. I was advise by a lot of peeps inc mechanic’s to just seat then snug the Allen head bolts as they can snap easily .. again Do your research and do what you think best
two of the large main bolts ( on the left of rear cylinder) again on the rocker plate are too close to top frame to get a torque wrench on. On various videos they just used a spanner and guess the torque fron the other torqued bolts. Again research and make your choice. If the cams drop out while your removing the cover the lifters will only drop a little to rest on the cam bushes. You can lift back the lifters with a screwdriver all be it a fiddle and put in the cam. be careful not to rotate the lifter in its bore & double check the cams are all in the right place ie the timing marks all line up correctly. Follow the manual to check.
One way breather valve and my tube route Can’t see any reason not to permanently glue the brass elbow in place. Atm just held in by Teflon plumbers tape & lightly snugged up to a washer..ok so external breather system with no leaks now around the whole carb area & much neater imo then the standard banjo bolt setups. Better engineering setup too as a crank case breather agin in my opinion.
bought the drill and tap of Ebay. The brass elbow fitting I got 1/4” npt with 10 mm hose end, eBay again. If your one way crank pressure relief valve uses a smaller hose get that hose Diameter end.I’ve never drilled & taped anything in my life so was freaking out about doing this… tip :- I 1st drilled a pilot hole. Before drilling I marked the center of the round area on the cover. Taped a thin kebab stick from the center mark flat on the cover through that mark & pointing to the hole position marked on the side of cover. then with the cover clamped to a flat surface, use a level as you need to block the cover up off the bench as bronze bushes petrude from inside the cover, lean a straight adge against the side of the cover. Look down from above, as photo above, to line up the drill bit with top kabab stick (or other) this gives you a 90 degree hole through the cover. Line up the straight edge with the drill bit & you get the other dimension at 90 degrees. You’ll need a friend for that one. I had the wife who was as terrified as I’d ever seen her at messing up.
now drill the main hole lining up the same. its important as I was practicing on a 5mm plate aluminium by eye I constantly miss drill the holes causing the thread cutter to jam halfway through cutting the thread.
cutting the thread on the case I line it up best I could and did the same. Worked out perfect
see below for up date!or ofc go find a company who can drill an tap it for you. Should not cost much if you find a local engineer or black smith.
Up date :- when taping the hole start it off, go in a bit take out the thread cutter try the brass fitting to see in which position it tightens into the tapered hole ie 90 degree hose connector pointing down. If it doesn’t then tap hole some more until it’s at a decent death into the cover pointing in the direction you want and tightly screwed into the tapered thread. Don’t just cut the thread all the way through the cover. When done use locktite 262 ( med to high strength) or 263 high strength thread lock or tape as preferred.
I cut all the way through ( my bad) and solved that buy using 263 which has made it secure & sealed.
of coarse all this work is done at your own risk. This is how I did mine at my responsibility.
And you’ll need a workshop manual.
Last edited: