Relays

Russbott

Russbott

Club Member
'07 883 relays. g8h-1a4t-r 12v. Looked all over fleabay, Amazon etc and can't seem to find any. Does anyone know where I can get them and not at HD prices? I only need the relays, not the name 😄😄
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Hello there Russ, have you tried taking them out and down to Halfords and choosing some with the same rating and pin pattern, it's worked for me before
 
Jersey are cheaper but you should be able to cross reference them in your local motorfactor euro car parts and the like
 
12v dc x 100ohm is quite common on injection systems 29z8dj is the cross reference number i think and ford fiesta/ Vauxhall corsa spring to mind cant check until tomorrow
are they definatly goosed ?
 
M&M said:
Hello there Russ, have you tried taking them out and down to Halfords and choosing some with the same rating and pin pattern, it's worked for me before
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Hello mate, long time. Didn't know whether there's an alternative make that's the same or whether they're pretty much the same.
 
I have a 2008 bike here and got 5 off pack from Amazon. Here is the first listing that came up

Some relays have 5 pins and some have 4, the socket on the bike will accept them so don't worry if you see them, they do fit. The normally closed contact 87A is not used on the bike.

RS components used to be a great source but then they started charging delivery. Farnell is now CPC and they disguise postage as a handling charge but is slightly less than RS.
 
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watchman said:
are they definatly goosed ?
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Not definitely goosed but just eliminating potential problems. Seem to have battery draining while riding. Changed rectifier and battery, earth lead but still losing charge while riding. Engine management light and battery light comes on after a few miles. If I ride long distance I have trouble starting it again.
 
That suggests the charging system somewhere be that a component or a connection.

You can check the output from the stator with an AC voltmeter. Check stator for resistance and shorts. Check wiring from stator to regulator. Check DC output from regulator. There is a current test that HD can do on the regulator. The poor mans test is seeing around 14 volts with the engine running at high idle.

In order to test a relay properly but by your description I don't think you have a faulty one, you need to energise it and then check the resistance of the closed contacts. You do this on the bench with a 12 volt supply and an ohmmeter.
 
Copied from a previous thread when I first had the problem. Using a trusted indy mechanic I've known for years.
"Long story short, new battery and regulator.
Tested for around 40mins at a consistent 14.4v, stator was tested and showing all correct voltages and resistance readings, the old regulator wasn't putting out, new regulator putting out correctly, charge voltage to battery and battery charging correctly at 14.4v.
Checked any cables I can see, earth is tight"
 
If output of Alternator is good and Regulator is good then this MUST be an Earth problem.
Run a temporary Earth Lead from your Battery to the Engine and/or Frame and see if this improves things. Bad Earths can cause enormous problems for electrical components and are sometimes difficult to diagnose.
 
Softail898 is right run another earth and check bear in mind the bike may have low miles but the cableing is 16 years old and my gut is telling me that prob all cables to earth and the starter circuit ie motor feed and loom feed from the master link are full of corrosion you cant see inside the cables until you cut em open had an evo in at xmas with similar symptoms tried all changed cables bingo sorted out of curiosity cut em open longways to find loads of corrosive white fur causing resistance and the ignition to break down 8k later no issues so following your testing am beginning to wonder if they are the culprit…..
 
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