[B][COLOR=#000000][SIZE=+4]A Cut Above[/SIZE][/COLOR][/B]
[B][I][COLOR=#000000]By Buck[/COLOR][/I][/B]
[B][I][COLOR=#000000]Artwork by Mr. Tidy[/COLOR][/I][/B][B]So you ordered the wrong height windshield, and now you have to sit on a pillow to see over the top?[/B]
[B]Well good friend, let's try to fix that.[/B][IMG]http://tidyville.roadstarclinic.com/shield.jpg[/IMG] [B]Following is a method we all can use to cut down the height of our windshield , and still make it look [/B]
[B]"Factory Fresh".[/B] .[B]First, determine the exact amount needed to remove. The best method is to place a "band" of blue[/B]
[B]masking tape with the top edge where you think you want to cut. [/B][B]Make the band of tape at least four inches high, so that you cannot see under the bottom of the tape. [/B]
[B]Now take a ride !! A good long one !![/B]
[B]Keep the tape on for a few days if necessary. You will find that after a few minutes you "settle in the saddle" , which gives you a more accurate idea of how much to cut. I learned this the hard way and ended up cutting my shield three times before I was satisfied.[/B]
[IMG]http://tidyville.roadstarclinic.com/shield1.jpg[/IMG] [B]On a piece of cardboard, trace the shield's top outline.[/B] [B]Cut this outline out from the cardboard. [/B]
[IMG]http://tidyville.roadstarclinic.com/shield2.jpg[/IMG] [B]Place a 2" wide strip of blue masking tape on the[/B] [B]INSIDE of the shield, centered over where the cut will be. [/B]
[B]Use the cardboard pattern to trace a "Cut" line on to the tape.[/B]
[IMG]http://tidyville.roadstarclinic.com/shieldcut.jpg[/IMG] [B]The shield will be cut with the front side of the shield down on the bandsaw table top. If using a Saber saw, cut from the front side of the shield with[/B]
[B]the inside down.[/B] [B]The curved front of the shield must be covered to protect from scratches. [/B]
[B]I usually cover with a thin cardboard or heavy plastic bags. Anything to prevent scratched.[/B]
[B]Many will disagree but almost any type of saw blade will work. Most shields are tough Polycarbonate plastic (Lexan) which does not crack, chip, or scratch too easily. [/B]
[B]I use a "Six teeth per inch" wood blade on my bandsaw. A finer blade demands less sanding but I am too lazy to change blades.[/B]
[B]Cut on the line, using as smooth a motion as possible so as to reduce the sanding chore.[/B]
[IMG]http://tidyville.roadstarclinic.com/shield3.jpg[/IMG] [B]Here is a very important hint : [/B][B]Sand the edge round (like the rest of the shield) [/B]
[B]WITH THE SHIELD STANDING UPRIGHT !! [/B]
[B]If you lay it down the plastic dust will cause scratches where it contacts the table. [/B]
[B]Use 80 grit paper in a palm sander then switch to 220 for a "Fairly" smooth finish. This job can[/B]
[B]also be done by hand using the sandpaper on a piece of wood 2 x 4. Just get[/B]
[B]a smooth finish with a curved edge that is the same as the rest of the[/B]
[B]shield.[/B]
[B]The final step that produces that "Factory" edge is sort of delicate. If you slip here you will have a spotted shield![/B] [B]Most hardware stores sell M.E.K. (methyl ethyl keytone) as a universal solvent. This stuff "Melts" plastic. Moisten a COTTON rag just big enough to wrap over your index finger. Get it very wet, but not dripping.[/B]
[B]With a steady motion, wipe the newly sanded edge in one smooth stroke. WOW[/B]
[B]!!! It turns clear !![/B]
[B]If necessary , wait a few minutes and do it again. The plastic dries almost immediately.[/B]
[B]I suggest you practice the "Wipe" on the piece you cut off. It really is easy , as long as you don't drip.[/B]
[B]That's it ! Simple, but do it right the first time.And don't sniff too much[/B]
[B]of that M.E.K. ![/B]
[B]From This[/B][IMG]http://tidyville.roadstarclinic.com/shield.jpg[/IMG] [B]To This[/B][IMG]http://tidyville.roadstarclinic.com/shield4.jpg[/IMG]
