Gear return spring

Cab

Cab

Club Member
Problem with the gear shift on my 2002 883R, not returning after changing gear. With a delicate 'half nudge' of the boot I can return it to the centered position & make the next shift (not easy in heavy touring boots!) but obviously not a good idea to carry on like that.
I had a look at parts drawings and it appears there are 2 springs associated with the mechanism on shifter shaft, and one on the 'detent' mechanism. Which one's it likely to be, or is there some other harder to reach part I haven't considered?
I haven't found a picture that shows how much these parts are hidden by the clutch; will I need to borrow the clutch puller for this?
Any advice on this would be much appreciated but I'll get on & drain the oil/remove primary cover.
 
As I understand it looking at my 2008, the shifter shaft is covered by the drive pulley and clutch. The shit job is undoing the nut that holds the primary pulley on as that is done up with red Loctite to 250 ft-lbs.
 
There isn't a part 29 to pull out?

This is the 2002 Sportster gear shift. Part #22 is the shift lever.
Fxxn62H.jpg
 
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That's what mine looks like! I'm just wondering if it's 30, 31 or 33 & can they be reached without pulling the clutch off.
 
Get yourself a manual before taking it apart. From memory you won't need to remove the clutch. If you do it just pulls out but doesn't need taking apart it comes out like a cassette - it may be hard to pull due to strong magnet. Part 21 attaches to part 17 and the springs are on part 21. Part 21 has to be adjusted using a drill bit as a spacer to align it properly. As I say it was a couple of years ago & this is from memory but I managed to strip everything down using the manual. Give it a read & it all makes sense.
 
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In 2008 it looks like you can get at the springs as seen in this picture but it is a different shape to what you have. Picture above spring 30 is out of sight on both machines.

The problem when you ask about removing the clutch is you can't remove the hub with the chain on and you can't remove the chain so you have to take the primary drive sprocket off as well I believe. The magnets are behind the front, primary drive sprocket. I would like to be wrong as I may have to change the shifter shaft on the 2008 I have here, part #2.

iP2OSBA.jpg
 
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Note:- Post 4 Speed, i.e. '91 on 5 Speed Sportsters have the alternator on the crank shaft rather than behind the clutch basket, '04 on Rubber Mount Sportster have no gear box trap door, so the crankcases have to be split to get access to the actual gear box!

You will not get the shifter shaft out and back in to change the spring (#30) without removing the clutch, why, this is what you are looking at!


1675364304280.png

It's not hard to remove the primary drive, outer cover off, remove the chain tensioner shoe, if you don't you are likely to damage it, if you have a locking bar great, if not a stepped block type will work, it's a one piece case so no dowls and alignment of the inner primary to worry about, or even a rolled up rag wedged into the sprockets and chain will often do.

You only need to undo two nuts, the primary sprocket and the clutch hub which will not be that tight, accessed by removing the circlip holding the clutch release plate, the nut's underneath, then slide the two off together, with the chain, no need to go further with the clutch.

You don't need to remove the Alternator rotor either as shown in the picture.

I've found a picture of and '02 with the cover off.

1675366113481.png

Make sure you try the gear selection out before you finish and tighten it all up, you may well need to put the outer cover back on to do this!

As you are removing the outer cover seriously consider replacing the gearshift oil seal as the shifter splines can damage both when removing & installing the outer cover. A bit of plastic or tape with oil on the splines normally gets it back on with no damage.
If the seal is damaged it will weep oil!

You might find some useful information here:- Sportsterpedia.com
 
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SJC69, thanks for all that info, it's a lot clearer than the manual! Cover's off now & I'm sure it's 30 that's broken.
I just need to clarify two things:
1 The circlip on the clutch is the larger one, not the one around the rod? & once I've undone a nut I can slide the clutch off without compressing any springs?
2 Is the nut on the primary sprocket 1 1/8"? Feels a bit slack but I should buy an impact socket for that anyway.
 
Looking at the way it comes apart you should only need to remove the clip that holds the release plate

Ronnie''s Harley-Davidson''s 2002 Harley Davidson

Ronnie's Harley-Davidson® offers service and parts, and proudly serves the areas of New Ashford, Windsor, Lenox and New Lebanon.
partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche.com
Select clutch assembly. You remove #22 and then you can pull out #26 to expose the main shaft nut #16.

Have you eliminated the spring plate? An ideal time if not but then you would need something to compress the spring.
 
I presume you've tried a squirt of penetrating oil on the selector shaft where it passes through the outer primary cover to eliminate dirt/corrosion causing the problem?
 
Cab said:
SJC69, thanks for all that info, it's a lot clearer than the manual! Cover's off now & I'm sure it's 30 that's broken.
I just need to clarify two things:
1 The circlip on the clutch is the larger one, not the one around the rod? & once I've undone a nut I can slide the clutch off without compressing any springs?
2 Is the nut on the primary sprocket 1 1/8"? Feels a bit slack but I should buy an impact socket for that anyway.
Click to expand...

The spring may not actually have broken they can loose tension to the extent it does not return properly!

1 The large circlip not the small one, no spring compressor needed, the whole clutch slides off the shaft, however it has to be done at the same time as the engine sprocket with the chain on.

2 It should be an 1 & 1/8" A/F


There is a lot of useful information regards the primary here.

Sportsterpedia.com
 
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I didn’t get much spare time in February (and only in single hours) but just managed to complete this within the month. It’s a big job to replace a simple part!
I had to buy some bigger sockets (sizes needed are 1⅛ & 1³⁄₁₆) but with the help of all the above info (thanks guys), factory manual and Sportsterpedia it all made sense. Even the drill bit thing became clear when looking at the actual parts (a 3mm bit is fine).
I found the right size stuff for the locking bar under the shelves, simple job that. The engine sprocket nut was solid but I applied some heat with a propane torch to soften the Loctite then a 2’ bar was enough (don’t go mad with the heat, there’s an oil seal on the crank). The clutch nut was easy, but remember it’s left handed.
I worried about where the broken part of spring might have ended up, but found it safely stuck to an alternator magnet.
Trial fitting of the primary cover to check operation is easier without the shifter oil seal fitted, it can be pushed in easily afterwards (looking back, that’s how the manual says to do it). When checking, if it doesn’t click right in to 4th or 5th, rock the back wheel a bit and it will - remember, with the engine running the clutch & gears will be moving thus easing the shift.
The spring definitely feels stronger when shifting now, next time I have to work on the primary side of the other Sportster, I’ll make sure to replace the spring while the cover’s off.
 
Very good news. I have read different things about socket types but never a make that was used.

Could you give us the make of sockets you bought please?
 
Impact Socket Supplies, Chorley. They sell direct online, may be available through other stockists. Even if not using an impact wrench I think it best to use a quality socket if a lot of leverage is being applied, and 6 sides are better than a double hex for the same reasons.
Also, the one for the engine pulley needs to be deep enough to clear the end of the crank.
 
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