Primary chain issues

KendalPete

KendalPete

Club Member
I've been adjusting my primary chain according to the manual. There is a big difference between the tight spot and the rest of the chain. I've adjusted it to the recommended 3/8 at the tightest spot but it looks awfully loose everywhere else. Bike has done 18,000 miles and looks to have been well looked after so I don't think it has been short of transmission oil. I've changed it and the right amount came out.
When should you change a primary chain?
I've read that sometimes it's the sprockets which cause the tight spot and I guess I could find out by taking the case off and marking the chain to see if the tight spot moves around at all?
Any thoughts would be appreciated.
 
It takes very little variation in tension to go from tight to slack, even a brand new chain isn't perfect, add to that the minor eccentricity when the sprocket teeth were cut and you easily get that level of deviation.
The year of manufacture can have a bearing on this, so as previously asked what year and model do you have?
Bottom line is, if it is not hitting anything, sounds OK and the gear selection is fine, then just keep an eye on it, when it gets really slack you will know --
 
Ok as hippy said tension it at the tightest spot also re adjust your clutch as per the service manual both ends make sure you close the cable adjuster up completely before doing the allen key and locking assembly i set em to a 1/4 turn outl from the pushrod touching and it improves things a lot and do it on a cold engine also if this does not sort it i suspect the tensioner shoe is bent harley had an issue with the supplier around 08-10 and some were not up to standard with crap shoe plates bending trying to get the info from someone in the states as to which engine numbers had em fitted to see if yours is one only way to know for sure is after setting it up as per the above and no cure by popping the cover off to do a physical check 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
The only way to know for sure if there is a real problem would be to remove the clutch completely and the stator/magnet assembly in order to measure the run out on the shafts and check eccentricity of the chain drives.
 
Simple basic steps first as per workshop manual before diving in too deep and missing something simple and incurring expense not needed is probably the way forward at this point
 
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watchman said:
Simple basic steps first as per workshop manual before diving in too deep and missing something simple and incurring expense not needed is probably the way forward at this point
Click to expand...
Yes, all been done as per manual. But the manual doesn’t talk about how much variation between tight and slack is allowed.
 
I was thinking that if I were to take o
Andy from Sandy said:
The only way to know for sure if there is a real problem would be to remove the clutch completely and the stator/magnet assembly in order to measure the run out on the shafts and check eccentricity of the chain drives.
Click to expand...
I was thinking that if I mark the chain at the tight spot then rotate the engine a few times I can see if the mark moves? If not, it’s the chain but if it moves around it’s the sprockets?
 
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