Primary chain tensioner

Phil_d

Phil_d

Club Member
Hi All. I bought a 2013 road king a year ago. At the end of last season (yes, I’m a fair weather rider!) i had a grinding noise when I accelerated and decelerated. If I was at a constant throttle it went away whilst I was out on a ride. The next day I went to investigate what was going on but no fault. This weekend I’m going to take the primary cover off to check the tensioner to make sure it’s working correctly And the primary chain isn’t too tight. I’ve read conflicting information about whether the stock auto adjusters are fit for purpose and am probably more confused than before I started reading up on it.

what’s the opinion of those with more knowledge and experience? Is it wise to change to a manual adjuster it or is it not needed?
 
Hi harleys own automatic tensioner was was prone to failure it was modded 4 times by them ending up with the part number ending in a d suffix dealers were generally swapping them for the screaming eagle version but better kit is available in the aftermarket and much cheaper too on my big inch builds i used to use Haydens tensioner it coped excellently with everything my 124” s+s lump could put out with no adjustment after initial set up for the best part of 50k before i re shimmed it due to chain wear good kit highly recommended
 
The other aftermarket tensioner is the HB 125 Hydraulic Primary Chain Tensioner which has a very good reputation. It works on hydraulic pressure from the oil in the Primary. The Hayden Tensioner is a mechanical spring set up. Both are far better and cheaper than the Harley one.
I forgot to say the HB 125 is from Southern Oregon Hot Bikes. (y)
 
Last edited:
I used a Hyden M6-BT07 in a Fatboy 2007, it didn't improve the gear selection (as claimed) but I felt the spring tension solution was much better than the original ratchet method. I had the same experience but only on deceleration and found the problem was the inner primary bearing. If you find the primary chain and tensioners are ok you may need to look at the inner primary bearing behind the clutch basket.
 
The H-D automatic tensioner when failed/not operating correctly can overtighten the chain by ratcheting up, even by lugging and aggressive acceleration, a tight primary chain will whine, a loose primary will be snatchy and difficulty in getting neutral or first gear, grinding noise on acceleration & deceleration, could be compensator or clutch related, worn, loose etc.

Before you start buying parts get the cover off and check the whole drive out, top tip remember to disconnect the battery, pulling the fuse is not good enough as the battery is connected direct to the solenoid, you do not want any chance of the starter motor turning when you are in there easily done by moving the starter gear around and pushing in the solenoid!
 
Ive got a Drag Specialities manual tensioner which Ive never used. Bought it cos everyone said the auto tensioners are rubbish but when I took my primary apart the tensioner pad looked new and chain tension was perfect so didnt bother. Maybe I'll fit it one day.
 
I’ve taken the primary cover off and inspected the chain, tensioner and compensator. theres a little bit of wear on the pad but I’m more than happy with what I found. I guess I’ll be keeping the stock adjustor moving forward. next job is to open the cam chest and check the tensioner pads.
 
Phil_d said:
I’ve taken the primary cover off and inspected the chain, tensioner and compensator. theres a little bit of wear on the pad but I’m more than happy with what I found. I guess I’ll be keeping the stock adjustor moving forward. next job is to open the cam chest and check the tensioner pads.
Click to expand...
Get yourself a Dentists Mirror to see the Inner Cam Chain Pads easily. 👍🏻
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top