Billwaukee8
Club Member
Hi i`m looking to move the rear indicators on my XL1200C to accept the fitment of panniers. Has anyone had practical experience of doing this or have any suggestions? Cheers
Rear Indicator Relocation
- Thread starter Billwaukee8
- Start date
Andy from Sandy
Registered User
Depending on year you have 2 options as I see it:-
This one moves the indicators back but leaves them on the frame strut -
estore.chester-harley-davidson.co.uk
The other option is to relocate them as it is done on the Superlow, depending on year -
estore.chester-harley-davidson.co.uk
www.harley-davidson.com
There could well be knock-offs!
This one moves the indicators back but leaves them on the frame strut -
68474-04B|Harley-Davidson® Directional Relocation Hardware Kit|Chester Harley-Davidson®
68474-04B|Required when installing Saddlebag P/N 90342-04A on '04-later XL models.Required when installing Saddlebag P/N 90342-04A on '04-later XL models
estore.chester-harley-davidson.co.uk
The other option is to relocate them as it is done on the Superlow, depending on year -
67800077|Harley-Davidson® Turn Signal Relocation Kit|Chester Harley-Davidson®
67800077|Harley-Davidson® Turn Signal Relocation Kit
estore.chester-harley-davidson.co.uk
Turn Signal Relocation Kit 68733-02A | Harley-Davidson UK
Kit moves turn signals from rear fender struts to a license bracket mounted turn signal bar.
There could well be knock-offs!
Billwaukee8
Club Member
Thanks for the replies i`ll check out the superlow kit, bike is a 2015 model. Cheers
SJC69
Club Member
I' have fitted both kits Andy has above, there's a couple of things to consider, are the bags staying on most of the time and what you consider looks best, you may not have a choice depending on the saddle bags to be fitted.
Kit 68474-04B usually came standard with the H-D supplied Sportster saddle bags, has the big advantage of being removed and the bike put back to standard fairly simply, they basically sit over the fender struts and move the indicator back.
I reused this kit and saddle bags on several Sporters we had overs the years, '98,' 05 Custom, '05 883R, '09 883R.
Kit 67800077 also supplied with some H-D supplied saddle bag kits, but does require drilling a hole in your mudguard, and personally I don't like the look of the indicators there and would not fit this type kit if I didn't have to!
Instruction sheet Kit 67800077
What I would also say is I always soldered the connections and used epoxy filled heat shrink to seal the wiring and never had any issues with the wiring.
Kit 68474-04B usually came standard with the H-D supplied Sportster saddle bags, has the big advantage of being removed and the bike put back to standard fairly simply, they basically sit over the fender struts and move the indicator back.
I reused this kit and saddle bags on several Sporters we had overs the years, '98,' 05 Custom, '05 883R, '09 883R.
Kit 67800077 also supplied with some H-D supplied saddle bag kits, but does require drilling a hole in your mudguard, and personally I don't like the look of the indicators there and would not fit this type kit if I didn't have to!
Instruction sheet Kit 67800077
What I would also say is I always soldered the connections and used epoxy filled heat shrink to seal the wiring and never had any issues with the wiring.
DaveB
Club Member
I used the relocation kit on my 2017, expensive but it's HD. Also as already said, best to solder the extended wiring and heat shrink it.
It's a bit of a fiddle getting the wiring through the grommet in the fender and you'll have to make sure you prevent rust starting around the hole you have to drill.
You'll probably want to fill the vacant holes with some chrome blanking plugs. I had a job getting the right sizes and they rattle around a bit, but ok ish.
It's a bit of a fiddle getting the wiring through the grommet in the fender and you'll have to make sure you prevent rust starting around the hole you have to drill.
You'll probably want to fill the vacant holes with some chrome blanking plugs. I had a job getting the right sizes and they rattle around a bit, but ok ish.
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Andy from Sandy
Registered User
If you used the SuperLow relocation kit then you could complete the job with Superlow frame covers that won't have indicator holes in them.
From where the indicators are to where the connector is on the Custom the wires shouldn't need extending. It should be easy to pull the pins out of the connector and re-route them.
As I have the kit to do it I will always go with a connector pin over joining a new bit of wire to an old bit.
When I had to fit new rear indicators on my partners machine I crimped on the pins and therefore no soldering. If the wire is long enough I would always go with pins. If the wire is too long and nowhere for the slack I would cut it and crimp on a new pin.
From where the indicators are to where the connector is on the Custom the wires shouldn't need extending. It should be easy to pull the pins out of the connector and re-route them.
As I have the kit to do it I will always go with a connector pin over joining a new bit of wire to an old bit.
When I had to fit new rear indicators on my partners machine I crimped on the pins and therefore no soldering. If the wire is long enough I would always go with pins. If the wire is too long and nowhere for the slack I would cut it and crimp on a new pin.
Billwaukee8
Club Member
Once again many thanks for all the help and advice, I've got some planning to do. SJC 69, yes i`m looking to make them removable as I've fitted a sprung seat and want to keep the clean solo look. Panniers are required for Rally's and meets. Andy thanks for the link I can get a Superlow kit for £118 from Sycamore. Cheers
SJC69
Club Member
I suppose the next question is then, are you thinking of actual hard or fitted panniers in the sense of the H-D ones or throwovers or mounted to the rails type?
If so you may well not need to move the indicators and with throw overs they can have the bonus of not allowing the bags to slide back!
A ridged style mount for a flat back pannier from Craftride
Basic throw over support rails
This is the sort of set I use on the slim, the indicators are far forward, I got some saddle bag rails that hold on with two bolts each side, put them & the solo rack on then secure the bags with good old bungees! Takes about 10 minutes to get them on or off!
Picked up a set of H-D throwovers on e-bay for £80, these have hard flat backs so could be bolted to the above Craftride type rails and used as used a ridged mount bags!
If so you may well not need to move the indicators and with throw overs they can have the bonus of not allowing the bags to slide back!
A ridged style mount for a flat back pannier from Craftride
Basic throw over support rails
This is the sort of set I use on the slim, the indicators are far forward, I got some saddle bag rails that hold on with two bolts each side, put them & the solo rack on then secure the bags with good old bungees! Takes about 10 minutes to get them on or off!
Picked up a set of H-D throwovers on e-bay for £80, these have hard flat backs so could be bolted to the above Craftride type rails and used as used a ridged mount bags!
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SJC69
Club Member
This is generally not possible as there is very little slack and re-routing on most models is not really possible as the wiring is run and held with metal clips along the side of the mudguard, some models though do have a rubber conduit.
If the wires are incorrectly routed or a lot of slack left you have a real risk of the back wheel taking the wiring out when you hit a heavy bump, even more so with the lowered models such as the custom & low.
Unfortunately with either of those H-D kits you need to extend the wires and cannot avoid a joint somewhere as the oem wiring from the indicator is just not long enough with the lamp end fitted into the lamp holder that cannot be got at easily.
Andy from Sandy
Registered User
I know where the clips are as I have fitted new indicators to a Custom. They will not be used if using the number plate relocation kit. The rubber conduit attached to the underside of the mudguard feeds to the baseplate attached to the mudguard behind the rear lamp on a Custom and SuperLow. On that base plate is then 3 connectors to plug in the indicators and rear lamp. I am just not seeing why the wires need extending to the number plate.
I can see with the other kit the wire has to run along the frame so will need making a bit longer.
I can see with the other kit the wire has to run along the frame so will need making a bit longer.
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SJC69
Club Member
What needs to done depends on what kit is being fitted, what model, but more specifically which type of rear light is fitted.
I will specifically cover 2015 year as this is what is being discussed.
So you have two styles of Kit
68474-04B which moves the indicator back on the strut.
Kits 67800071/7 which moves the indicators to a bar on the rear number plate mount.
You have 3 main type of rear lights
The standard rear light where the indicators terminate on the circuit board within the light.
The custom style LED light where the indicators terminate under the seat.
No separate rear light as such where the rear/stop light is combined with the indicator. (These kits are not for these models)
So Kit 68474-04B will require the wiring to indicators to be extended unless you were fitting it to a vehicle with the indicators already fitted to the rear numberplate, so 1200T, they then may well be long enough as the terminate under the seat!
With the standard rear light the wiring is simply not long enough to thread through to the adaptor plates and reach the circuit board.
With the custom LED style light you will again need longer wiring, as above to thread through the adapter plates to reach the connectors under the seat.
(Connectors 18, 19 & 40 are under the seat)
With Kits 67800071/7 due to having to feed the wires through the indicator bar and to exit the left hand side, with the Standard type rear light the wiring will certainly not long enough for the R/H indicator and unlikely to reach with the left.
With the custom LED light you are moving the indicators further away from the connectors under the seat and also have to again feed it through the light bar, so again will need to extend the wiring.
I will specifically cover 2015 year as this is what is being discussed.
So you have two styles of Kit
68474-04B which moves the indicator back on the strut.
Kits 67800071/7 which moves the indicators to a bar on the rear number plate mount.
You have 3 main type of rear lights
The standard rear light where the indicators terminate on the circuit board within the light.
The custom style LED light where the indicators terminate under the seat.
No separate rear light as such where the rear/stop light is combined with the indicator. (These kits are not for these models)
So Kit 68474-04B will require the wiring to indicators to be extended unless you were fitting it to a vehicle with the indicators already fitted to the rear numberplate, so 1200T, they then may well be long enough as the terminate under the seat!
With the standard rear light the wiring is simply not long enough to thread through to the adaptor plates and reach the circuit board.
With the custom LED style light you will again need longer wiring, as above to thread through the adapter plates to reach the connectors under the seat.
(Connectors 18, 19 & 40 are under the seat)
With Kits 67800071/7 due to having to feed the wires through the indicator bar and to exit the left hand side, with the Standard type rear light the wiring will certainly not long enough for the R/H indicator and unlikely to reach with the left.
With the custom LED light you are moving the indicators further away from the connectors under the seat and also have to again feed it through the light bar, so again will need to extend the wiring.
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