S&S M8 cam chest install in pictures

Mark Hammond

Committee
Out with the stock early version HD oil pump and in with the S&S oil pump. Would have been rude not to change the cam for a 465 profile while it was apart.

Bike is certainly a lot livelier now and its nice to have the reassurance that the cam chest is now all new components.

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  • B18F3931-2568-4C09-870F-4E563B76350D.MOV
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Where is the breather venting from?

Which breather? The one that is sticking out where the right side panel would be is the filter for the rerouted head breather bolts. It normally lives tucked out of the way on top of the transmission.
 
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Mark how much for that lot mate

The complete kit with everything you need to do the job including quickee pushrods etc was £1600. I shopped around for prices from several different suppliers and everyone was about the same price due to most UK based suppliers all getting their stock from Zodiac.

You can do it a bit cheaper if you use the latest version of the stock HD oil pump rather than the S&S oil pump.
 
If I was to go for a Stage 2 would I need to swap out the cam plate? or is the original going to do the job? Got a 2019 114 Fat Bob
 
If I was to go for a Stage 2 would I need to swap out the cam plate? or is the original going to do the job? Got a 2019 114 Fat Bob

You’ll probably get away without changing the cam plate. Cheapest way to do it is to just change the cam and cam bearings.

Take a look at my earlier post that has some feedback on M8 oil pumps from a very respected builder of performance M8 engines, you’ll probably decide you don’t need to change the oil pump either.

 
I've been playing with the idea of going stage 2 on my 107 roadking as i already have stage 1, price I've been quoted is £1100 an that's fitted ( screaming eagle ) at the dealership with warranty
a few guys have told me when done it will out pull a 117
 
Best not to listen to folk at the dealers.
Talk to Alex, or Boz.
Years of experience. No hard sell. They know what works. Will save you money in the long run. Best advice i had from Alex was dont chase numbers, set the bike up for how you use it. Had similar advice from Boz too. Both have worked on my glide, but Alex did the major work.
 
Best not to listen to folk at the dealers.
Talk to Alex, or Boz.
Years of experience. No hard sell. They know what works. Will save you money in the long run. Best advice i had from Alex was dont chase numbers, set the bike up for how you use it. Had similar advice from Boz too. Both have worked on my glide, but Alex did the major work.
thanks for that info(y)
 
KingHog, I had the ''stage 2'' with H-D ''torque cam'' done at the dealership PRE delivery of my new 2019 107 Road Glide.

I did that in the full knowledge that there are superior cams out there ... but you only get one chance to get a whopping discount at the dealership brand new. So i went ahead. It worked out good. Bike has more than enough power for me. Way more.

I got several grand knocked off the out-the-door final invoice by the time every extra bit was added, including parts I supplied. I have far more than the sticker price ''invested'' as most of us do LOL.

But of course, the selling dealer (300 miles from me) that did the stage 2 just used a canned map that bore no relation to a ''correctly tuned'' DynoJet PowerVision with the parts they put on the bike. The warranty-service dealer (40 miles away) fixed that with a dyno run.

(Many Australian H-D dealers are very happy to dump the stock tuner for informed customers, AND I got warranty work after that).

Now that the bike is out of warranty, no dealer will see it again.

I have a dyno sheet, and compared to some posts I read on the internet, my 107 is apparently a slug. But I'm not chasing numbers except in the Lotto, and I sure can lose my licence within 400m if I so wish. My ''seat of the pants'' experience passing trucks on the freeway - as opposed to bullshitting at the bar - tells me this bike is a rocket.

(It's all perspective and context .... did you know that the 1973 Pontiac FireBird Trans Am with the Super Duty 455 cubic inch motor, just about America's last classic muscle car and a rarity that has guys drooling at car shows all over the world, has WAY less horsepower than Kia's modern Stinger 6cylinder twin-turbo with just 201 cubic inches under the hood?)

Starting fresh for a ''stage 2'' with a bike you are already riding? Yes, I would certainly avoid the dealer and go with an independent workshop who know what works through sheer experience with a variety of performance parts. And if you are still running the shoddy stock factory lifters and the factory tuner, let them talk you out of those too.

If you are spending, you want it done right.
 
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KingHog, I had the ''stage 2'' with H-D ''torque cam'' done at the dealership PRE delivery of my new 2019 107 Road Glide.

I did that in the full knowledge that there are superior cams out there ... but you only get one chance to get a whopping discount at the dealership brand new. So i went ahead. It worked out good. Bike has more than enough power for me. Way more.

I got several grand knocked off the out-the-door final invoice by the time every extra bit was added, including parts I supplied. I have far more than the sticker price ''invested'' as most of us do LOL.

But of course, the selling dealer (300 miles from me) that did the stage 2 just used a canned map that bore no relation to a ''correctly tuned'' DynoJet PowerVision with the parts they put on the bike. The warranty-service dealer (40 miles away) fixed that with a dyno run.

(Many Australian H-D dealers are very happy to dump the stock tuner for informed customers, AND I got warranty work after that).

Now that the bike is out of warranty, no dealer will see it again.

I have a dyno sheet, and compared to some posts I read on the internet, my 107 is apparently a slug. But I'm not chasing numbers except in the Lotto, and I sure can lose my licence within 400m if I so wish. My ''seat of the pants'' experience passing trucks on the freeway - as opposed to bullshitting at the bar - tells me this bike is a rocket.

(It's all perspective and context .... did you know that the 1973 Pontiac FireBird Trans Am with the Super Duty 455 cubic inch motor, just about America's last classic muscle car and a rarity that has guys drooling at car shows all over the world, has WAY less horsepower than Kia's modern Stinger 6cylinder twin-turbo with just 201 cubic inches under the hood?)

Starting fresh for a ''stage 2'' with a bike you are already riding? Yes, I would certainly avoid the dealer and go with an independent workshop who know what works through sheer experience with a variety of performance parts. And if you are still running the shoddy stock factory lifters and the factory tuner, let them talk you out of those too.

If you are spending, you want it done right.
thanks for that info, we do a fair bit of European trips 2up an loaded with luggage so the extra torque would come in to play wen needed,
its just turned 17000miles so probably looking to do it in the new year,
we had a breakdown in Slovenia in July with the regular packing up an not available anywhere in Europe for 3 months which kinda has knock my faith in the bike but suppose it can happen to any bike...
 
we had a breakdown in Slovenia in July with the regular packing up an not available anywhere in Europe for 3 months which kinda has knock my faith in the bike but suppose it can happen to any bike.
Do you mean REGULATOR? Good grief, that is shocking, that's the most basic stock part for any H-D. The bit that fails most. Was there no aftermarket shop with one nearby?

Mine's still good at 32,000 miles.....
 
I've been playing with the idea of going stage 2 on my 107 roadking as i already have stage 1, price I've been quoted is £1100 an that's fitted ( screaming eagle ) at the dealership with warranty
a few guys have told me when done it will out pull a 117

If a dealership are quoting £1100 to do a stage 2 with SE cam, they are probably only going to replace the cam and load up a canned HD tune onto the ecu. I would check to ensure that they are going to replace cam bearings, lifters etc while they are in the cam chest.

Depending on the year of the bike and the mileage covered by the bike, it would be worth checking the rest of the cam chest components for wear and to see which version of the stock HD oil pump is currently fitted to the bike.
 
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