S&S M8 cam chest install in pictures

I went with a torque cam and cam bearing on both Fat Bob and Fat Boy, both of which were Stage 4 and Twin Cam engines and never had any issues with the top end running standard lifters on quick adjustable push rods and both bikes covered over 30,000 miles.

Just a thought, but is it just the higher lift (HP seeking) cams cause issues with the top end, or have I just been lucky?
 
^^^^^^ the stock lifters MUST be replaced when swapping out the stock cam. That is not negotiable.
If not they will fail.......at 12,247 miles in my case ....

Any dealer who is not quoting to replace stock lifters as part of the job cannot be trusted to do the job.

On an early Twin Cam, this is not an issue. On any Big Twin 2011-up, from when production of lifters was switched to Mexico and quality plummeted, it certainly is.
 
^^^^^^ the stock lifters MUST be replaced when swapping out the stock cam. That is not negotiable.
If not they will fail.......at 12,247 miles in my case ....

Any dealer who is not quoting to replace stock lifters as part of the job cannot be trusted to do the job.
Guess I was lucky as one was 2012 and the other 2016 :encouragement:
 
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Did a Stage 2 on a 114 with Trask intake, Fuel moto jackpot headers, Torque Cam, SnS lifters and SnS billet tappet cuffs, SnS Grand Nationals
IMO theres only one way to know the outcome and thats to get it dyno'ed. I used the Dynojet target tune with Frank at dynojet in Preston.
i wanted an improvement in the accel from 50 mph zone, to get past the big trucks on the european roads, that dont seem limited to 56mph.
My Dyna TC went through Alex and Frank, and i would recommend that route for sure.
I see lots of dealerships state this and that for power increases, with no dyno before and after to back it up. Also, warranty is by the MoCo not the dealer, though the dealer may guarantee their work.
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If a dealership are quoting £1100 to do a stage 2 with SE cam, they are probably only going to replace the cam and load up a canned HD tune onto the ecu. I would check to ensure that they are going to replace cam bearings, lifters etc while they are in the cam chest.

Depending on the year of the bike and the mileage covered by the bike, it would be worth checking the rest of the cam chest components for wear and to see which version of the stock HD oil pump is currently fitted to the bike.
its the screaming eagle kit there quoting for..
 
its the screaming eagle kit there quoting for..

Yep, probably just a cam and flashing a new tune onto the ecu. At £1100 including labour, there won’t be any uprated oil pump or cam plate going in. Check that they have quoted to replace the cam bearing and to replace the lifters.

This is probably the kit they have quoted to install. No lifters or cam bearings included in the kit.

 
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Yep, probably just a cam and flashing a new tune onto the ecu. At £1100 including labour, there won’t be any uprated oil pump or cam plate going in. Check that they have quoted to replace the cam bearing and to replace the lifters.
Upgraded oil pump an cam bearing are included not sure abt the rest, he told wot all was included those are definitely included..
 
Don't know if I'm allowed in here as I only have old bikes ;) but just as a matter of interest (to me anyway) the drive gear on the end of the new cam looks to have an odd tooth shape with what looks like a gap in the teeth. How does that work?

Just looked a bit closer, is it to positively locate in the chainwheel for timing purposes?

Ron.
 
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Don't know if I'm allowed in here as I only have old bikes ;) but just as a matter of interest (to me anyway) the drive gear on the end of the new cam looks to have an odd tooth shape with what looks like a gap in the teeth. How does that work?

Just looked a bit closer, is it to positively locate in the chainwheel for timing purposes?

Ron.

Yep, its for locating the chainwheel.
 
Recently had cam chest done all S&S and 475g cam , now runs way to loud and very jumpy in the low rpm , having that cam out soon !
 
Recently had cam chest done all S&S and 475g cam , now runs way to loud and very jumpy in the low rpm , having that cam out soon !

A dyno tune session can help smooth out the low end lumpiness with the 475, but I know a couple of people who have fitted the 475 and not liked the way the engine performs low down in the rev range, which is why I went with the 465.
 
thanks for that info, we do a fair bit of European trips 2up an loaded with luggage so the extra torque would come in to play wen needed,
its just turned 17000miles so probably looking to do it in the new year,
we had a breakdown in Slovenia in July with the regular packing up an not available anywhere in Europe for 3 months which kinda has knock my faith in the bike but suppose it can happen to any bike...
Been all round Europe on a Fat Boy S with a 117 Screamin Eagle Kit with Stage 4 pumping out 123hp/125ft lbs and 2up with luggage and not a single issue after 30,000 miles.
The reality of all that power over stock is, you rarely ever have it wide open to the stop in every gear (especially 2 up touring), but you know it's there if you ever need it and overtaking is so easy with instant grunt.
 
Recently had cam chest done all S&S and 475g cam , now runs way to loud and very jumpy in the low rpm , having that cam out soon !
Another thought on low down running with that cam is the exhaust system used as Alex will tell you a bad exhaust can ruin a good engine build a build needs to be the sum of its parts fuel moto in the states did a test build with a mild state of tune and tested around 20 of the most common exhausts fitted from leading suppliers and the dyno graphs for torque and output were an eye opener with some of the most fashionable brands being rearly rough in the low range and power/torque outputs varying immensely all done on the dyno and set with a power vision to produce optimum results….remember sum of its parts ! with_glasses
 
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