To impact or not to impact.

Roach

Roach

Club Member
I need to replace the alternator stator on my FXR and I'd like some opinions on the use of an impact wrench on the compensator nut.
Using a long breaker bar is going to be difficult on my own.
I can do it myself using an impact wrench but the factory manual warns against this.
Some people on other forums say they've used an impact wrench without doing any damage.
What do you think?
 
There is so much to and fro' on the web, yes you can - no you can't.
The Donny said that when they were young they couldn't afford compressors or the "rattle gun" but that was the way to go --
I used an electric to remove mine, very fast and no magnets fell out.
I am tempted to use it to tighten as well, the reasoning being that relying on jamming the chain, putting bars between the two sprockets etc. THen heaving on a torque wrench doesn't sound that good either.
I think that a fast hit with an electric whilst grabbing the sprocket by hand, "shouldn't" cause any more distress than the motor and compensator can manage on it's own.
Bit like death - do you believe, or hope to argue the case when you get there --
 
I use an impact to get it off and torque wrench to assemble. They can get rust on the threads which makes them difficult to get off.

The plastic primary locking tool works well enough to get it torqued up.

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Not sure I would use an impact wrench - too violent a process on the compensatory nut. Penetrating lubricant (like Seafoam Deep Creep) and then if that does not work apply a little direct heat to nut as suggested by Simon. But as has already been said, it's down to personal preference and a person's appetite for risk and subsequent possible damage. Let us know how you get on John - good luck mate.
 
Well Andy, that is another story as they say, the book states RED Loctite, now most folk don't read the next bit that specifies the actual grade, so RED Loctite is assumed to be the really high strength stuff and that would create a few problems with removal ---
 
In the past, the high strength retainer was also red in colour, as you say yellow and green are the new flavour along with purple.
 
Thanks for the replies.When it stops raining (no garage),I think I'll go with the impact off,torque wrench on method.
 
I can't see it. This using an impact business.
What is there so complicated about loosening or tightening a nut that requires such an over abundance in applied force?
If there be the legitimate reason, i.e. physical infirmary, is one thing and o.k.; but picking up a torque gun to save a little effort on behalf of your arms (or suffering your brain into a bit of creative thinking prior to pickling the poor thing against the night's cold), is patently inadmissible to my mind.
Find a pipe and a person and a piece of delrin (you can also pinch some of wifey's nylon cutting board...blame it on the cat...). It is suggested to find a pipe suitable enough to compel the cooperation of both the person and the motorcycle.
Impact wrenches were adopted long ago as a method of improving rate-of-production as well as consistency in accuracy. From there they trickled into the hands of the Great Unwashed (fitters and mechanics), then further to the feeble-handed or those sadly lacking in pipes, wives, cutting-boards and cats.
Anyway,
Subjecting the motor shaft to a bam!bam!bam!bam!bam!bam! hammering at 400 licks a minute at anything above 300 ft. lbs. torque seems to me contrary to mechanical usage ....
... figger,
even if you've used a jam bar, that set-up is not, in itself, perfectly rigid, therefore there is play in the torque path of those hammering shocks; That play rebounds under the backloaded force of the jam bar to be ready for the next smash. Result, Q.E.D., your wrist-pins are hammering on your wrist-pin bushings... for one thing..... And remember that you are pushing hard (again backloading) against the combined weight/resistance of the bike.
Not for me boys, just the thought of subjecting the internal works of a V twin mill to that kind'a heavy and repeating shock load, most especially when considering that the motor isn't turning over to spread out that applied load..... gives me the heebee-jeebees..... bad.
 
Except the modern electric is running at 3100 "hits" per minute, fast enough that you can hold the component in your hand and still tighten it to reasonable torque.
Am I weaker than 1 year ago? Too 'kin right I am, I am still not sure that I am able to ride the FXR, two wee heart failures take their toll.
Old air powered units were slow and used heavy blows to achieve the result, new stuff is so fast that the part being secured has no time to worry about it.
Just my take.
 
I'm sure ya'll got something like this available over thar; also good for marking head-bolts after initial re-tightening as well as solid sprocket shaft nuts. And tranny nuts/bolts. I suppose one might, in a fit of uncertainty, dot everything, and so wind up with a truly spotted child.

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Provides an easy visual means of identifying movement or loosening of fittings, nuts, etc. on critical components after they are properly torqued or positioned. Fast drying adhesion to all metals and most other surfaces. Sealant becomes brittle and will crack under movement. Color: daylight...
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