Compensator Question for those in the know.

Bit more disassembly, got the stator out to seal the grommet up. Anyone want an old knackered compensator and rotor ? Actually the comp itself doesn't look too bad, but you can see where some previous "Technician" has bent the peens back on the rotor to add a spring Im guessing, oh and look the outermost spring has splitIMG_1329.jpeg
 
Had to get myself a new Torque Wrench for this job, my current one only goes up to 150Ftlb which was fine for the OE compensator but not for the SE one which requires 175 Ftlb .
IMG_1363.jpeg
 
Nice tool. Think I'll stick to calculating a four foot tube and using part of my 200lb body weight. Will be in the ball-park with compensator nut settings between 200-400lb ft. 50lb spring balance will aid in the super technical calculations . . . . How tight? F tight!
 
I bought a large Norbar when I rebuilt the sporty, not too expensive, and calibrated.
I have 2 other smaller Norbars all calibrated, plus a baby 1/4 drive Wera for the Inlb applications, covers most of the needs.
And also useful for JSO protesters --
 
Halfords torque wrenches are made by Norbar, I believe.

At least the calibration certificate for mine was issued by Norbar.
 
You have a couple of options for setting the Torque, one if you can use any sort of extension such as a crows foot etc. this will multiply the torque, so i.e if set at say 150Nm on the wrench it will increase this figure applied to the nut.

I'll stick detail below of how this works in simple terms.
However I do not think this option will be practical as it is a torx head bolt you are tightening.

Another cheaper option, rather than purchasing a new torque wrench would be to get a Digital Torque Adaptor.

Screenshot 2023-07-21 085529.jpg

Halfords do a 300Nm Torque wrench for £120

Screenshot 2023-07-21 085509.jpg

Don't get too hung up on getting a precise figure on that bolt as there are so many variables that can alter the figure such as getting the torx bit square on etc. and a large figure like that does not really need to be that precise!

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Thats enough for today, Im Jacobs. I tell you what, I wouldn't like to try guessing 175lbf, it took some effort. I can tell difference already, I could move the front sprocket back and forth really easily before, not anymore:)
IMG_1366.jpeg
 
Hi, good luck with the Screaming Eagle upgrade… unfortunately for me it went again within 7,000 miles and I had had enough of it… after advice I found too much end float which was contributing to compensator deterioration, and whilst tempted by the Baker offering I took drastic action to solve both issues for good…..
I made contact with Darkhorse Crankworks and sent my empty cases crated up with my Pistons out to them, for the full treatment… Handmade Balanced and Blueprinted Welded and Plugged Man O War Crankshaft and a Man O War Engine Sprocket put in the crate for its return.
Long story short Heads skimmed by Alex at Fastlane and then rebuilt by Matts Machine shop using Kibblewhite Valves n Guides.
I got everything back and rebuilt it myself…
Boz got 104 BHP out of it on his Dyno… I was well happy (std TC96 with SE 204 Cams) Rode it to Budapest as some of you know with a few issues…. Biggest one being Oil Consumption and some what disappointed I stripped it again after a compression and leakdown test to find second compression ring on the rear was Bad…. No Names but a Dealer sold me a set of rings bought for a customer previously by mistake and put back into stock…… “its possible they were fitted at the dealership and then removed with insufficient care” and then a year later sold to me. The Bad ring had made little or no contact with the bore….. oil issue solved.
3,700 miles in I love it the Man O War Engine Sprocket is fine… makes a bit of a knock occasionally on tickover which apparently they can do…. I use an M6.IMG_6064.jpegIMG_6060.jpeg
 
Thats enough for today, Im Jacobs. I tell you what, I wouldn't like to try guessing 175lbf, it took some effort. I can tell difference already, I could move the front sprocket back and forth really easily before, not anymore:)
View attachment 1196022
I am about to do the same job and the parts are arriving shortly and I wonder what size the Torq bolt is, to make sure I have the size available.
The biggest I have is T50. It has to be tightened up to 175lbf? Where do you stick the 2 plastic bits? Ta. Paul.thumbnail_PXL_20230719_154119858.jpg
 
I am about to do the same job and the parts are arriving shortly and I wonder what size the Torq bolt is, to make sure I have the size available.
The biggest I have is T50. It has to be tightened up to 175lbf? Where do you stick the 2 plastic bits? Ta. Paul.View attachment 1196035
TX70 mate, got mine off Amazon. See below pic for plastic bit, you only use one depending on which bike type, and yes 175lbfIMG_1362.jpeg
 
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Hi, good luck with the Screaming Eagle upgrade… unfortunately for me it went again within 7,000 miles and I had had enough of it… after advice I found too much end float which was contributing to compensator deterioration, and whilst tempted by the Baker offering I took drastic action to solve both issues for good…..
I made contact with Darkhorse Crankworks and sent my empty cases crated up with my Pistons out to them, for the full treatment… Handmade Balanced and Blueprinted Welded and Plugged Man O War Crankshaft and a Man O War Engine Sprocket put in the crate for its return.
Long story short Heads skimmed by Alex at Fastlane and then rebuilt by Matts Machine shop using Kibblewhite Valves n Guides.
I got everything back and rebuilt it myself…
Boz got 104 BHP out of it on his Dyno… I was well happy (std TC96 with SE 204 Cams) Rode it to Budapest as some of you know with a few issues…. Biggest one being Oil Consumption and some what disappointed I stripped it again after a compression and leakdown test to find second compression ring on the rear was Bad…. No Names but a Dealer sold me a set of rings bought for a customer previously by mistake and put back into stock…… “its possible they were fitted at the dealership and then removed with insufficient care” and then a year later sold to me. The Bad ring had made little or no contact with the bore….. oil issue solved.
3,700 miles in I love it the Man O War Engine Sprocket is fine… makes a bit of a knock occasionally on tickover which apparently they can do…. I use an M6.View attachment 1196033View attachment 1196034
Fairplay mate, thats a lot of work and sounds like lots and lots of money and If my RKC was modded maybe I would contemplate something similar but with a fairly stock 96 Im hoping the SE should be ok, the original pile of junk compensator got to 30k miles .
 
You have a couple of options for setting the Torque, one if you can use any sort of extension such as a crows foot etc. this will multiply the torque, so i.e if set at say 150Nm on the wrench it will increase this figure applied to the nut.

I'll stick detail below of how this works in simple terms.
However I do not think this option will be practical as it is a torx head bolt you are tightening.

Another cheaper option, rather than purchasing a new torque wrench would be to get a Digital Torque Adaptor.

View attachment 1196003
i bought one of those torque adaptors from machine mart when i did mine. checked it against the torque wrenches at work as i thought it might not be that good but it was surprisingly accurate.
TX70 mate, got mine off Amazon. See below pic for plastic bit, you only use one depending on which bike type, and yes 175lbfView attachment 1196036
gluing that bit of plastic in does seem like a bodge mind and i was always worried in case it came off. i scuffed the inside up quite a bit to give good purchase and used jb weld like you and not had any issues so far.
the upgrade has worked fine for me. about 6000 miles and no problems-touch wood!
edit, i'm buggered if i know what's happened to the quotes. bloody computers :hopelessness: :im_stupid:
 
Yeah….. I got the same 30 something k out of my first one…. But I also at that time didn't recognise the symptoms as being down to compensator….. I was ignorant about them period, and ran what was a slowly developing compensator fault until it was shagged. it was only when I read an article that went on to talk about them in detail that the lights came on in an OMG moment… “thats wot Ive got”
I’m sure you’ll be fine, mine was rare to have noticeable end float with the compensator bolt done up. Yes, its a lot of money to spend on a 14 yr old Dyna, but it is a looker and now unique being the only Darkhorse Factory Blueprint in Europe and a keeper until I stop riding. Safe Riding Tim.
 
Yeah….. I got the same 30 something k out of my first one…. But I also at that time didn't recognise the symptoms as being down to compensator….. I was ignorant about them period, and ran what was a slowly developing compensator fault until it was shagged. it was only when I read an article that went on to talk about them in detail that the lights came on in an OMG moment… “thats wot Ive got”
I’m sure you’ll be fine, mine was rare to have noticeable end float with the compensator bolt done up. Yes, its a lot of money to spend on a 14 yr old Dyna, but it is a looker and now unique being the only Darkhorse Factory Blueprint in Europe and a keeper until I stop riding. Safe Riding Tim.
yeah, and you know what think mine was actually shagged long before too really. I know Matt's, ex Londoner like me. I actually popped in and saw him before I bought the RKC to ask advice about the Twin Cam engines, Typical Matt though, he dont really rate anything after the Evo reliability wise.
 
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