Hayden M6 primary tensioner

2cvandy

2cvandy

Club Member
Just a heads up for anyone thinking of fitting a Hayden automatic tensioner.
The instructions say to fit it with the taller side of the unit towards the crankcase side, so that it fits TO THE INSIDE OF THE PRIMARY CHAIN (the capitals are theirs, not mine).
This is apparently so important that the instructions tell you this twice, IN CAPITALS.
It's not exactly easy to fit anyway, and it quickly became obvious to me that it would only sit properly and work correctly if fitted the opposite way round, with the tall side towards the primary cover, so that's what I did.
Just to be sure, I emailed Hayden, their response said "yes, on certain Sportster models the unit has to be fitted the other way round".
I have no idea which are "certain models", but mine's a 2004 XL1200C, so that's at least one!
 
Last edited:
Re: Hayden M6 primary tensioner

Thanks for this. Got one to fit on my 02 883R over winter.

Sent from my F2 using Tapatalk
 
Re: Hayden M6 primary tensioner

You may be okay with that.
I think they modified the unit for the rubber mount bikes, they list 2 versions, Up to 2003, and 2004 to present.
I think the earlier version had a flat plate at the bottom and only the later one has the two little feet. Perhaps you could check?
Looking online at the instruction sheets for the two versions, they're exactly the same, so I suspect that all the rubber mount ones will need to be fitted the "wrong" way round and that they just didn't bother to update the instruction sheet?
Be interesting to know if anybody else has fitted either version?
 
Re: Hayden M6 primary tensioner

Hi.

I have PDFs to install Hayden M6-XL4 for 4 Speed Sportsters 77 - 00.
M6-XL5 for 5 Speed Sportsters 91 & UP and
M6-XL5-2 for 5 Speed Sportsters 04 & UP.

So there must be some difference between then.
 
Re: Hayden M6 primary tensioner

Yes mine is M6-XL5.
Doesn't look too difficult from instructions.

Sent from my F2 using Tapatalk
 
Re: Hayden M6 primary tensioner

MacDuffman said:
Yes mine is M6-XL5.
Doesn't look too difficult from instructions.

Sent from my F2 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

Yeah, it should be simple enough,
but compressing the shoe with a cable tie to enable fitting isn't exactly a good engineering solution IMHO.
The PITA is trying to cut the cable tie with the cover halfway on.
To be fair, access would probably be easier with the bike in the air, unfortunately I had something else on the bench at the time, so I was laid on the floor next to the bike trying to see under it.
Next time I need to pull the cover off, I'll be looking for a way to modify the M6 to make fitting simpler.
The cable tie idea just seems like a bodge to me.
 
Last edited:
Re: Hayden M6 primary tensioner

Thought that myself when reading instructions - kind of Heath Robinson affair. Will have mine on Easyrizer lift so hopefully should be easier.

Sent from my F2 using Tapatalk
 
Re: Hayden M6 primary tensioner

Reading this makes me think of my 1988 4 speed. I wonder if I could just slip a spring over the shaft of the adjuster bolt under the pad to make it into an auto tensioner?

Adjust the chain as normal. Find the height from the base of the case to under the tensioner by removing the case without undoing the adjuster if that is possible, or maybe measure threads on the adjuster bolt. Find a strong spring of just over that length.

What could go wrong? [Shrugs]
 
Re: Hayden M6 primary tensioner

"What could go wrong? "

Nothing at all.
Except that you'd presumably have to grind the threads off the adjuster bolt? Because if it's threaded into the case the spring ain't gonna move it, and if you don't put the lock nut and sealing washer back on the adjuster bolt,,,,,,, what stops all the oil pissing out,,,,,,,,,?
But other than that, yeah, sounds like a plan
:encouragement:
 
Last edited:
Re: Hayden M6 primary tensioner

2cvandy said:
"What could go wrong? "

Nothing at all.
Except that you'd presumably have to grind the threads off the adjuster bolt? Because if it's threaded into the case the spring ain't gonna move it, and if you don't put the lock nut and sealing washer back on the adjuster bolt,,,,,,, what stops all the oil pissing out,,,,,,,,,?
But other than that, yeah, sounds like a plan
:encouragement:
Click to expand...

Obviously, I'm no engineer! But the adjuster bolt just pushes on the underside of the pad, with a spring pushing the pad back down onto it, it's not connected.

My thoughts are to remove the spring, (part 19), put a spring over the adjuster bolt (3) and allow this spring to push up on the pad. The bolt would be holding the spring into place. It can't be as simple as that surely? Someone would have done it by now. Getting a spring that provides a reasonable tension would be tricky. Too loose and the chain will whip, too tight and the chain, pad and bearings will be stressed.

Anyway, it was just a thought.

image.jpg
 
Re: Hayden M6 primary tensioner

I confess, I've not seen an adjuster like that one. The later ones have the adjuster bolt connected to the shoe.
From the picture it's unclear what the spring (19) is actually doing ? Looks like it might provide some measure of automatic adjustment already ?
But as you said, why not pull the cover off and see ?
Maybe it is as simple as it seems :encouragement:
 
Re: Hayden M6 primary tensioner

I've had a chance to put a couple of hundred miles on the tensioner now.
In case you were wondering, it does make a difference, not so much on up changes, but down is definitely smoother. Less snatch trundling over speed humps in 2nd gear too. Still clunks into 1st though.
I'd say it was worth doing, but Hayden's claim that "you'll think you've rebuilt your clutch and transmission" is as far fetched as it sounds.
 
Re: Hayden M6 primary tensioner

2cvandy said:
Looking at the pics, I'd say your tensioner already has an element of spring loaded automatic tensioning.
Wonder why HD decided to eliminate that ? Cheaper without I guess ?
Click to expand...

Actually the spring on this model, remember it's an early 4 speed, is pushing the shoe down, AWAY from the chain. The adjusting screw is pushing back up against the spring to put it at the height you need.
 
Fitted mine yesterday. Was a right bastard to hold everything in place. Gasket kept getting stuck. Put the tall side inwards as it said on instructions. Can't get 3/8 deflection if I push chain up. Don't know if overtight is normal or due to it being wrong way round.
 
I can't say I bothered to check how much play there was after fitting it.
I did use the stronger of the two springs, because I tried it with the lighter one and you could hear the chain tapping the inside of the case !
I'd assume it will feel tighter than normal if the tensioner is working properly, because the chain thrashing around at 5,000 rpm is going to put more force on it than your finger can ?
I'd be surprised if it's in the wrong way round tbh, mine would definitely only fit one way, just not the way the instructions said. :encouragement:
 
Is the Sportster version of the M6 different to the Twin cam version, as that uses both springs, one inside the other?
 
Yes. Short spring if you're less than 30,000 miles. Longer if done more. It's slightly fatter and a few mm longer. I think there's about 6 different types of Hayden's
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top