Ideas for changing/improving the Shovel front brake switch
- Thread starter Gaz1
- Start date
jayzedkay
Club Member
i drilled and tapped my brake-tee bolted under the lower yoke for the banjo-switch to get rid of it from the bars.
obviously it's not wired up in the pic, but you get the idea.
had to use the spacer to fill the gap where a banjo would normally be. copper washer either end to seal it.
could fit a generic hydrau-switch, but they tend to be much larger OD than those banjo switches?
twin four-pot front end.
obviously it's not wired up in the pic, but you get the idea.
had to use the spacer to fill the gap where a banjo would normally be. copper washer either end to seal it.
could fit a generic hydrau-switch, but they tend to be much larger OD than those banjo switches?
twin four-pot front end.
Skip
Registered User
I can't recall that I ever saw a hyd. brakelight switch mounted on the fork slider, or mounted lower than the tripl clamps.
The tidy(est) install I ever saw was an inline switch like this, only without the bracket portion:
---(Opinion here)
The inline option does not necessarily require you to install it upstream of the splitter, but it's hard to see how it's installed downstream of the splitter without looking awkward----*
The simplest of installs I think would be to , a. buy a banjo adaptor fitting to screw into the mst. cyl. and, b. buying a replacement upper brake hose to fit & a double stack banjo-bolt. Goodrich hoses has many fittings to cover custom installs.
I gotta deal with this choise myself soon: Inline switch means a full replace of stock lines with S/S using -3 fittings as in pic above or,
replace one hose and one fitting with one hose and two fittings on current setup. Or even putting an inline switch 'tween mst. cyl. and splitter in pic below....... which would likely involve a deal of hunting for 2 'just-right' hoses or the expense of having them made up.**
link for switch:
There would be very little to no clutter, sight-wise, to this option as the fitting + banjo switch + banjo on brakeline would not be 'over-long' compared to the stock setup.
All the above was thought out on 2 lines: Will the simplest solution be the most reliable? And, does the solution keep plumbing clutter....including wiring.... to a minimum?
Your options, plumbing-design-wise, are pretty broad here.
edit:
*awkward perhaps, tho i'd be easy enough to blend the wiring in with say, a front fender light.
**not really necessary to go looking for 2 'will fit' hoses; like as not it's cheaper to get a well set up hydraylics shop to cut the top hose to splice in 2 fittings the switch will go to.
The tidy(est) install I ever saw was an inline switch like this, only without the bracket portion:
---(Opinion here)
The inline option does not necessarily require you to install it upstream of the splitter, but it's hard to see how it's installed downstream of the splitter without looking awkward----*
The simplest of installs I think would be to , a. buy a banjo adaptor fitting to screw into the mst. cyl. and, b. buying a replacement upper brake hose to fit & a double stack banjo-bolt. Goodrich hoses has many fittings to cover custom installs.
I gotta deal with this choise myself soon: Inline switch means a full replace of stock lines with S/S using -3 fittings as in pic above or,
replace one hose and one fitting with one hose and two fittings on current setup. Or even putting an inline switch 'tween mst. cyl. and splitter in pic below....... which would likely involve a deal of hunting for 2 'just-right' hoses or the expense of having them made up.**
link for switch:
There would be very little to no clutter, sight-wise, to this option as the fitting + banjo switch + banjo on brakeline would not be 'over-long' compared to the stock setup.
All the above was thought out on 2 lines: Will the simplest solution be the most reliable? And, does the solution keep plumbing clutter....including wiring.... to a minimum?
Your options, plumbing-design-wise, are pretty broad here.
edit:
*awkward perhaps, tho i'd be easy enough to blend the wiring in with say, a front fender light.
**not really necessary to go looking for 2 'will fit' hoses; like as not it's cheaper to get a well set up hydraylics shop to cut the top hose to splice in 2 fittings the switch will go to.
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devon.john
Club Member
Been fitting the good ridge banjo brake switch for years on my Harleys ,,,
just change the banjo to the master cylinder
as to brakes on the shovel ,,fitted jap six pot cost very little and works
just change the banjo to the master cylinder
as to brakes on the shovel ,,fitted jap six pot cost very little and works
FXSTC Dave
Club Member Clubs Rally Coordinator
Hi Skip.
Looking at your photo of your bike, isn't your brake pedal on the wrong way ?
It seems it should be more to the right; (see the black bit I've added) so it's in front of the
footrest when you push it.
Looking at your photo of your bike, isn't your brake pedal on the wrong way ?
It seems it should be more to the right; (see the black bit I've added) so it's in front of the
footrest when you push it.
Skip
Registered User
Hi Dave,
It's the wrong way sure. I did that to test my 'Grand Theory of Interference'. But the JB stuff (shifter & brake assmbls) are coming off. This '74 FXE is being restored, m.o.l. At any rate, all the custom stuff is coming off. This is the bike with the turn signals inside the swingarm.
I favor the 1980-82 FXWG setups, for shift & brake, on all my bikes....same setup... tho arthritis in left hand means going back to a jock-pedal one day.
Thanks for noticing.
It's the wrong way sure. I did that to test my 'Grand Theory of Interference'. But the JB stuff (shifter & brake assmbls) are coming off. This '74 FXE is being restored, m.o.l. At any rate, all the custom stuff is coming off. This is the bike with the turn signals inside the swingarm.
I favor the 1980-82 FXWG setups, for shift & brake, on all my bikes....same setup... tho arthritis in left hand means going back to a jock-pedal one day.
Thanks for noticing.
Skip
Registered User
One of my ideas is to mount the (or rather a) master cylinder on the triple clamps...
In other words, run a cable from the handlebar down to a mst cyl.... and this fitted behind a neat cowl perhaps...... there is a Sportster sheet-metal cowl that bolts right up to any SG set of fork clamps.....
This one...... not the aluminun one
... the idea is to try and get the observant people to do a double-take at a cable-actuated dual-disk set-up....
edit: Oops. fergot to add:
the cable idea above, coupeled with internal throttle, internal wiring and a jocky pedal...... would result in one very clean set of handlebars.....
In other words, run a cable from the handlebar down to a mst cyl.... and this fitted behind a neat cowl perhaps...... there is a Sportster sheet-metal cowl that bolts right up to any SG set of fork clamps.....
This one...... not the aluminun one
... the idea is to try and get the observant people to do a double-take at a cable-actuated dual-disk set-up....
edit: Oops. fergot to add:
the cable idea above, coupeled with internal throttle, internal wiring and a jocky pedal...... would result in one very clean set of handlebars.....
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Ron
Club Member
BMW did this on their 1974 R 75/6 Boxer twin. The cable went from the hand lever to a master cylinder under the petrol tank. I don't remember the reasoning behind it but it was in the relatively early days of disc brakes so perhaps a suck it and see moment. A further thought, the BMs used very narrow handlebars so may not have had enough room for the master cylinder.
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Panhead Boris
Club Member
Yes BMW fitted cable pulled master cylinder...there ar3xs3veral custom shops that supply the setup off the shelf eg below isTUV compliant:
https://www.wwag.com/en/kustom-tech-master-cylinder-cable-controlled
https://www.wwag.com/en/kustom-tech-master-cylinder-cable-controlled
springer carl
Club Member
on my Norton I used a Jap style one and mounted under the lever, put a small socket head bolt in to locate on the plunger
jayzedkay
Club Member
yeah, i'm working on a cable-pull M/C setup hidden between the tanks.
initially i got a fab-kevin setup, but it's too small diameter, 9/16", 14mm something like that. i still have it.
i then looked at those 'karting' type master cylinders, but they just weren't suitable, again too small bore and somewhat messy to install.
after searching hi and low for a suitable m/c i ended up using a 5/8 to 3/4" rear-brake m/c, later HD, softail/fxr whatever,
this is for twin disc, 8-pot in total setup so needs to move enough oil.
not the best photos, this was when it was work on progress.
haven't access to my final photos of it all at the mo.
i made the brackets, tacked it all up with my mig. but then the machinist/fabricator i work with tigs it all up sweet like.
an important factor was that i wanted the cable-mount to look like it was part of the head casting.
i know it won't be seen, but i know it's there and thats what matters.
M/C mounted to frame.
rubber boot is removed as i was dickin' about trialling stuff.
OCD cable mount. b-e-a-utiful.
mockup gives you an idea of the setup
mousetrap cable used for brake so matches the mousetrap cable on the clutch side.
symmetry is everything.
The MT-cable is modded, cutting off metal-pressing, cut off nipple-tip and thread remaining swageing
screw the clevis on.
final cable is a custon venhill to correct dimensions. this is a test/draft cable.
you could tow a car with that cable?
this is the mount for the m/c and lever.
frame is upside down, so you're kinda looking down onto the cross-tube, yeah?
m/c bolts up through that square hole. gusset for rigidity and the lever mounts in any of the x4 position for various leverage combos.
bottom position has maximum mechanical-advantage, but also requires most travel on hand-lever.
highest position will be smallest mechanical-advantage, but requires least travel from lever.
anyway, thats the deal.
sorry for the derailment gazza.
i suggest you tap into the brake tee under the yokes.
springer carl
Club Member
Get a 3/8th hydraulic switch off Amazon £5.80 , thats what I used for my rear brake and mount it as above
Intermotor 51600 Brake Light Switch,Black https://amzn.eu/d/1SFollU
Gaz1
Club Member
So I’ve gone with Skips original design and attempted to fit an inline switch, as he pictured above. Do you think I can fit the bloody thing 
. Every time I try to tighten the nut onto the switch the ferrule isn’t crushing it just pops the whole lot of the brake line. Hit me with it, what am I doing wrong?
. Every time I try to tighten the nut onto the switch the ferrule isn’t crushing it just pops the whole lot of the brake line. Hit me with it, what am I doing wrong?
Skip
Registered User
Doing wrong?So I’ve gone with Skips original design and attempted to fit an inline switch, as he pictured above. Do you think I can fit the bloody thing
It's difficult to know, exactly, at this distance. My own plan..... when I get around to building my 'Crazy Uncle' Shovel, is to buy pre-made from Goodridge OR, baring that, have a local hyd. shop make'em up. The latter is, I think, my best option, for I'd feel best if the ends of the hose were permantly swagged on rather than screwed together. At this point, I'd not hazard a guess as to which would be the lessor of expense in Merry Ol'.
The -3 & -4 size 600 Series Aeroquip fittings (for example) are a cast iron bi**h to assemble if you're batting at them with little to no experience.
I'm an A&P, but I've not assembled high pressure hoses in a long, long time and, have no way to properly pressure test my results except to go riding. No, in the end, it seems best to me that I should let those with more and recent knowhow to do the job of assembly.
Even back inthe day... '80's & '90's... no A&P worth his salt would use a CABLE cutter on braided hose. Note in the pic that the cutter so badly distorts the hose walls... squinches'em flat it does.... who would hope for a proper, let alone permanent, lasting seal there? And we didn't use tape to hold the mesh, but ele. shrink-wrap instead; and a proper cut-off wheel in a proper steady mounting.
Aeroquip and Russell both have vids for doing the job right. I'll see if'n I can find a couple of'em & post, but again, my opin is... the best, surest way is to let those with the most experience do the job.
Suggestion: If you are fortunate enough to live near an airport with full-service FBO, sweet-talk their hydraulics shop into it....... I've done that, tho I have an A&P card to smooth the way because,,, couldn't you guess?..... the dirty-fingernails portion of the aviation industry is deeply fraternal.
Many peeps in aircraft work-shops ride motorcycles... of all flavors.... this could be your foot-in-the-door, for aviators of all strips are inveterate talkers once started.....
That's my take on the hot skinny for getting brake hoses sorted.
Personally, I favor the inline switch (as above---minus the L-bracket) over the banjo cause it'll conform to the wiring plan I'm laying out that... oh Gawd!..... could change by the time I arrive at that (far) point. I haven't been running a (front) brake light switch on the WG for a loooong time; because I'm infernally lazy and, there are no motor vehicle inspections..... at all.... under 16,000 lbs. max gross weight...... in Florida.
edit: don't kno why I keep spelling the name wrong.... it's Goodridge....not Goodrich.
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Gaz1
Club Member
From the YouTube tutorial, I realised that I wasn’t opening up the braided outer layer to allow the ferrule to seat properly. I’ll have another go tomorrow.
And Skip, while I wholeheartedly agree with you about the benefit of having one professional made, I just fancy having a try myself.
And Skip, while I wholeheartedly agree with you about the benefit of having one professional made, I just fancy having a try myself.
