Rear stoplight on all the time

PMK

PMK

Reps Liaison Officer
I only noticed this because my cruise control stopped working. I've replaced the rear switch and its the same. Could the front one stick as its a mechanical one ?
 
Its the front one that is easily damaged if the switch/lever assembly has been disturbed when changing grips or levers or bars.
 
I've not actually been near the front levers or anything.

I'll remove the lever tomorrow and see if it goes off
 
Had the same a while back. The front brake lever has an area/tab where it pushes a spring loaded switch for the brake light in the handlebar switch gear cluster. On mine, over time it wore a small indent in the aluminum lever and was just enough to keep the brake light on. A small dab of liquid metal/epoxy in the indent, gently sand flat and bingo, it returned to normal.
 
Same for me, although I slid into the space between the switch and the casing, a small rectangular piece of sheet steel. This wasn't pushed out by the spring action of the switch and is still functioning fine.
 
As nealebms says, be careful if removing the Brake Lever!


1670359005545.png

Do not remove or install the master cylinder assembly
without first positioning a 5/32-inch (4 mm) thick insert
between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removing or
installing the master cylinder assembly without the insert
in place may result in damage to the rubber boot and
plunger on the front stoplight switch.

See Figure 2-54. Place the cardboard insert between the
brake lever and lever bracket.
 
Or an easy fix pop circlip off pin remove lever alone cut a bit of heavy duty shrink wrap and slide onto part of lever that presses on switch warm with air gun or lighter to shrink then replace making sure to lead the switch tang in first then pivot lever till holes align to drop pin in replace circlip job done :encouragement:
 
  • Like
Reactions: PMK
I'm trying to grasp the mechanics of this.

The switch works when it's pressed in ....yes?

So by adding a screw, plug, wrap of shrink wrap the switch is pressed sooner making it work earlier.

I'm off to bed to ponder it as I have to be up at 4am
 
PMK said:
I'm trying to grasp the mechanics of this.

The switch works when it's pressed in ....yes?

So by adding a screw, plug, wrap of shrink wrap the switch is pressed sooner making it work earlier.

I'm off to bed to ponder it as I have to be up at 4am
Click to expand...
No, it is the opposite. with the Lever in the normal position it holds the Switch in. When the lever is operated, the Switch pops outwards making a contact to operate the Brake Light. If/when you take the Brake Lever off all will become clear. :encouragement:
 
No the lever when not pulled in is pressing on the switch when you put brake on the lever releases the switch making the circuit brake light comes on, Then… brake released lever presses switch breaking circuit…. :encouragement:
 
softail898 said:
No, it is the opposite. with the Lever in the normal position it holds the Switch in. When the lever is operated, the Switch pops outwards making a contact to operate the Brake Light. If/when you take the Brake Lever off all will become clear. :encouragement:
Click to expand...
Aaargh you type better than me recon he will get there (y)
 
If you find the front switch to be working ok, then I personally have had the rear brake switch in the hydraulic line stick on, this was fixed with a new switch.
 
Dredger said:
If you find the front switch to be working ok, then I personally have had the rear brake switch in the hydraulic line stick on, this was fixed with a new switch.
Click to expand...
I've replaced that yesterday to no avail
 
Lets get this right your bike is around 2010 model, you have replaced the rear brake light switch, the pressure switch by the master cylinder.
You are making substitutions and assumptions, let me make a suggestion, before you start to dismantle and replace any more things your bike is capable of displaying Diagnostic Trouble Codes to help identify and help locate faults.

You do not need any diagnostic tools it will display the codes on the Speedometer. (See attachment)

I know on later bikes there are separate DTC for both the front Brake & rear light switch sticking on, this may not apply to yours though!

Now I am assuming you do not have ABS as you have changed your pressure, switch either way, the easiest way to check if the rear switch is sticking on when the Brake light is illuminated is to take one of the wires off the spade connection to brake switch, you open the circuit, if the light goes off, the switch is stuck!
Also do not overlook the brake light is operated by a relay which also can be an issue here, I seem to remember this is one of two relays in the fuse area that are the same so you can swap them over to see if it is faulty. (see below)

IMG_20221207_0002.jpg

Remember start simple , run the checks rule out the easy stuff before dismantling things!
 

Attachments

  • Harley DTC Codes.pdf
    68.6 KB · Views: 6
Pull the wires off the rear switch, if the light stays on, the problem is up at the handlebar. I had the same problem on my Road King years ago.
 
Andy from Sandy said:
I wondered if your bike has CAN bus. You mention that cruise control isn't working. I wonder if it's related.
Click to expand...
If 2010 it will not be Canbus, however it makes no difference as brake light operation will drop out the Cruise Control on all H-D cruise systems including the early stepping motor version.
 
Also do not overlook another common issue, corrosion on the tail light circuit board, this can short out between the rear & brake light circuits!Easy to check just remove the rear lens!

Screenshot 2022-12-07 124902.jpg
Screenshot 2022-12-07 125526.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top